m113 hole patching

Global Recon · Post by **Global Recon** » Sun Feb 06, 2005 12:12 pm

Hi guys. I was wondering what some of you might have done to patch the holes in the M113 after taking the backpaks and stuff off? I thought maybe JB weld would work, but wanted to check here first.

Also does anyone know what paint would match the factory paint job so I don't have to repaint the entire vehicle?

momaw nadon · Post by **momaw nadon** » Sun Feb 06, 2005 12:33 pm

One problem about using JB Weld is that it shrinks. I use Auto Bond. Plus with Bond, you don't have to worry about chacking with time, because the diecast is thick and doesn't flex like on a 1:1 auto.

About the paint you might have to do test and retest to get the right match. One thing about paints is if you can get paint that doesn't change too much when dry helps.

I don't have a M113 yet, but if it is like the Tiger in the way of wheathering it is almost impossible to match.
momaw nadon

HardenSteel · Post by **HardenSteel** » Sun Feb 06, 2005 8:39 pm

You can try humbrol or milliput.

They both work well. You can mix it
with liquid glue if you require more
strength (I do that a lot with the thick 1/18 scale plastic. Straight liquid glue works for small holes although you can experience shrinkage and will need to do it several times.

Visit your local (serious) modelling store,
they will have good advise and the products to go along with it.

HD

billgiff · Post by **billgiff** » Sun Feb 06, 2005 8:41 pm

Global Recon, I customized a M113 and used Squadron Green Putty to plug up the holes. What I did was that I applied enough putty to fill each hole with some excess around the outside diameter so it will bond to the existing metal. After drying I sanded it down. A couple applications is what I recommend for a strong patch. Of course after you sand the plugged areas, the paint will be messed up. That's OK because the 21st century factory paint job on the M113s is horrible. The desert tan, olive drab and Nato green spray colors are all available from Testors Model Co. That's what I did and it worked great . I hope this helps. Bill

USCGSARdog · Post by **USCGSARdog** » Mon Feb 07, 2005 4:07 am

I agree, you should repaint the entire model. I resprayed mine after I customized it and it looked far better than the factory paint ever could. Throw in a little weathering and you have a very realistic 113 with minimal effort!

-Rob

WGP Klaus · Post by **WGP Klaus** » Mon Feb 07, 2005 6:30 am

Miliput works good, but I would suggest going with Squadron Green putty. I've been using this as a gap/hole/seam filler for many years and it's great. Just give it more than enough curing time and sand it down and rescribe lines if necessary.

In regards to painting, if I were you I'd not try to match since you probably won't be able to match it very well. You should repaint the entire piece, using US Armor Sand (available in Model Master Acrylics) and airbrush if you're able. Actually, if you dont want to spend alot of $$$, I saw that Walmart carries a decent selection (located near the plastic model section) of various airbrush type configurations, and trust me..it works soo much better than manual brushing.

If you've got any questions, feel free to email me P8ntguns4sale@aol.com

HTH
Todd

Global Recon · Post by **Global Recon** » Mon Feb 07, 2005 8:15 pm

Thanks for the help guys. I have two of 'em so I'll mess around with the first one and see what happens!

Hollywoodkbl · Post by **Hollywoodkbl** » Thu Feb 10, 2005 4:42 pm

How large are the holes when you take the backpacks off. Arn't they molded to the sides, and not just stuck on with a small peg? Does the M113 have a detailed engine compartment and interior?

WGP Klaus · Post by **WGP Klaus** » Thu Feb 10, 2005 6:38 pm

The holes are small and the packs and such are attached by 2 small pegs on each piece. Another way to fill so that the material when shrinking (some compounds) doesn't fall into the hole is to do what I did, and simply superglue a small piece of sheet styrene on the inside of the body allow to dry then use filler and adjust if necessary.

The engine compartment is detailed but nothing extraordinary, definitely room for enhancement. I'm working with styrene rods, aluminum hollow rods, pvc hollow rods and flexible tubine (lp pneumatic hose) coiled with thin brass wire to give the steel braided effect and will be detailing the engine plumbing and adding some surface details to the engine itself.

HTH
Todd

DocTodd · Post by **DocTodd** » Thu Feb 10, 2005 8:33 pm

[quote="WGP Klaus"]
The engine compartment is detailed but nothing extraordinary, definitely room for enhancement. I'm working with styrene rods, aluminum hollow rods, pvc hollow rods and flexible tubine (lp pneumatic hose) coiled with thin brass wire to give the steel braided effect and will be detailing the engine plumbing and adding some surface details to the engine itself.

/[quote]

I would love to see some pics after your done.
Todd

kenhil2 · Post by **kenhil2** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 7:50 am

anyone know if the holes go all the way through to the inside of the vehicle, i was just thinking of filling it with ordinary glue, then reapint,

problems, suggestion?

Hollywoodkbl · Post by **Hollywoodkbl** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 11:50 am

Finally picked up the sand colored version of the M113 last night. Box was trashed, and got a slight discount, but nothing to brag about. Got it home and ripped it apart. The holes are big, and it looks shot up after you pull all those accessories off. My complaint is the rear. You can't turn this into an early M113 without having to rebuild the rear tread areas...the large compartments will have to stay on I guess, although I did get the armor off the front splash plate. Time to get the airbrush fired up this weekend...lots of painting to do.

Oh yeah, trying to fill these holes with glue won't work IMO. You need to fill sand and repaint I think....sounds like that is the general consensus. I'd love to see pics of what you other guys have done to this thing...anyone have any links to pics! Thanks!

WGP Klaus · Post by **WGP Klaus** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 10:06 pm

kenhil - the holes do indeed go through the body. I'd suggest at the very least using Squadron brand green putty, pack it in let dry for 24hrs, sand and add if necessary. I'm airing on the side of caution and supergluing styrene plastic on the inside of the hole then using the filler putty, this will prevent the material from knocking through once dried. I often use the green putty as filler on plastic, but as of yet not used it on diecast so not sure how well it will adhere, hence the reason I'm using the styrene on the backside. No question these require work, but they're a great platform from which to work, and given a little attention to detail, can turn into a nice piece. A friend who is quite proficient with using fiber optics on control panels on large scale a/c models suggested doing this piece as well as other armor, and the way this vehicle breaks down definitely lends itself to that type of detailing.

Hollywoodkbl · Post by **Hollywoodkbl** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 11:53 am

Started on the overhaul this weekend, and have been shooting pics as I go. I'll post some tonight hopefully. All holes have been patched and sanded using the squadron green putty, and I've painted the interior white. Starting the exterior this evening, and detailing some more of the interior. I'm converting mine to the ACAV version....I've got great ref. pics in the Squadron book M113 I picked up about 10 years ago.

Global Recon · Post by **Global Recon** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 5:57 pm

So were the vietnam era m113's white inside and the modern M113's a light green, or are all of them white inside?

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m113 hole patching

m113 hole patching

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