The Thing-repaint question

[dragon53]

GUYS:

I have another repaint question for you.

I have a model of The Thing whose space suit was painted in the wrong color---brown.
I want to repaint it to the correct color--flat black/dark grey

1. Instead of buying an expensive airbrush, is it possible to repaint it using a spray can of acrylic flat black/dark grey paint?
2. Would primer have to be applied to the brown paint before applying the flat black/dark grey paint?


Wrong color--brown.




Correct color--flat black/dark grey.

[normandy]

In this case I would use a brush, the clothing on the figure is much different than
the surface of a tank or plane. Choose the color and brush it on and then highlight
or darken areas as needed. Darker color in the recessed areas.

[[CAT]CplSlade]

Unless the bits like the head and hands are removable, I wouldn't want to mask that off for spraying. I'd probably brush paint it myself or just start over.

[dragon53]

Thanks for the info.

I've used a brush to touch up small scratches, etc., but not on large areas (the figure is over 11" high), so I have more questions:

1. The paint might be too thick and cover up details on the space suit--how do I determine the correct consistency?
2. How do I avoid brush strokes?
3. Do I need to use primer, then acrylic paint?
4. What brush size is best?

[normandy]

1. Make sure you shake the bottle of paint then stir it, this will mix the paint
to the consistency the manufacturer intended.
I use Tamiya paint and if it needs to be thinned, I use their X-20A thinner.
Sometimes I thin the paint when using my airbrush but most of the time its right
out of the bottle.

2. You shouldn't have problems with brush strokes, most paints flow nicely
over the surface. Here you're painting clothing with folds and creases, you might
want to show that by using light and dark shades of the same color.

3. You can use primer but your figure has been painted already, I'd paint right
over it.

4. Any model store / hobby shop paint brush should do just fine.

5. Most important...have fun, experiment and learn.

[cnq]

I would echo what normandy said , I prefer to use Vallejo for brush painting as I find it thicker and work better with brush than Tamiya (Vallejo for brush not for airbrush as they make both versions).

[dragon53]

GUYS:

Thanks for the info.

This is the same Billiken kit as my The Thing, but this one is painted correctly.
This is either very dark grey or black.

[dragon53]

I finally found this from the colorized version of the movie.

[dragon53]

I have an old Windsor Newton #707 brush (see photo) and was wondering if the #707 is ok to paint The Thing figure which is about big---1/6 scale and about 12" high.
I have Vallejo Model Color acrylic paint.
Also, any suggestions on preparing the paint, brush strokes to cover large areas on the figure?

[[CAT]CplSlade]

You'll be doing thin layers, gradually building up the color. Thinning will kind of depend on local environmental conditions, but you want it thin enough to flow from the brush without running or pooling. It's a damn Mk I Eyeball deal. Anyhoo, brush-painting large areas is what pushed me to the airbrush but I know it's not always an option. The advice I gave is from reading what others have posted; my brush experience with large areas is from my enamel days and doesn't work as well for acrylics.

But yeah; don't rush it. Layers is the keyword I always hear.

[normandy]

I think the 707 brush would work alright. As I said above... 4. Any model store / hobby shop paint brush
should do just fine.
Use what you have to paint the figure. I haven't used Vallejo paints but with any paint you don't want to
overload the brush (to much paint). Pick an area to start, lets say the torso...front then back. Don't
over paint an area, by that I mean (to much paint). You can always go back and give it a second coat.

Move on to the arms then legs...its all up to you.
You'll get the feel of the paint, how it flows and how well it covers. The biggest thing to remember is,
have fun with this and learn. You'll do fine.

[dragon53]

CNQ:

Since you've used Vallejo paint before, I got a bottle of Vallejo Model Color "Black Grey" (#70.862) and have the following questions.

1. Should I dilute the Black Grey?

2. What brush would you suggest from the brush chart photo I posted above? (The Thing figure is big at 11" high).

3. Any other painting suggestions?

[pickelhaube]

All the tips before are legit .
But there is a way to use spray paint out of a rattle can .
Of course you would have to mask everything off
Spray the whole thing with your color.
If you want to do shading use a slit template for your shadows and another for you high lights,
Determine how big a swath you want then glue shims on the back of your template to determine how soft or hard you want your shadow lines.

1/16 ,1/8 or 1/4 glued to the back of your template and holding on the figure will give you a consistant spray pattern.

I used this method trying to copy 21st paint scheme on my 251 back date project.
Being too lazy to break out my airbrush
After some practice I was able to get some nice patterns matching the original.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=32490&p=315505&hili ... 51#p315505

[dragon53]

PICKLEHAUBE:


Thanks for the reply.
I already have the Vallejo paint and brushes, but because I have no paint skills and The Thing figure is rare and hard to find, I'm reluctant to use a brush because I might botch it up.
The spray can paint appears to be the best option----but I've never used spray can paint either.

[pickelhaube]

Cut the slit templates and practice on something like a paper towel inner tube.

[dragon53]

PICKELHAUBE:

Thanks for the info.

I originally wanted to use drybrushing with Vallejo, but had doubts after reading the following article from an expert (keep in mind that I condensed the article).
I'm reluctant to use the rare The Thing figure for a drybrushing experiment that could go awry, so it looks like a can of spray paint is the better alternative.



"1. Thinning Vallejo Model Color

The paint is far too thick for hand painting right out of the bottle. The paints can be thinned with tap water or their thinner.
Each color will need to be thinned differently. Blacks and Browns are very thick out of the bottle and need to be thinned 1:1 paint/thinner. With the thinned paint, don’t expect to cover in one pass and don’t skip thinning thinking you can cheat and cover in one pass, you will leave clumps and brush marks. 2-3 coats of properly thinned paint should be sufficient for coverage. By applying the paint thin you can achieve a surface just as smooth as one that was airbrushed.
For special affects the paint can be thinned even further. Figure painters build up successive layers of translucent paint to create highlights and shadows. Very thin Vallejo can be used as a filter to subtly change the base coat and create specific affects.


2. Tips for Hand Painting VMC

The paints dry very fast. If working with a dish pallet, add water as time goes by since evaporation will change the consistency of the paint.
Use a wet pallet when you need small amounts of color. The paint does not dry out as fast and if properly sealed, the paint on the pallet can be used weeks later. It may require a little re-thinning but will be just as good as the paint out of the bottle. Darker colors separate and paints can draw into the sponge if it is not wet enough.
Clean the brush often as you paint. Vallejo dries quickly and can ruin a good brush.
A good quality #2 or #3 pointed brush can produce fine details while holding enough paint for larger areas. This is helpful for shading uniforms where there may be a variety of sizes of folds. Use the largest brush possible to avoid streaking while blending.
Test the thinned paint on a scrap model or piece of paper before you apply it to the model. If the paint is too thin, it can flood off the brush and ruin the surface.
If you are trying to layer thin paint for clothing highlights and shadows, a little paint can go a long way. After you dip the brush in the paint, drag it across a dry paper towel. This will draw off enough paint to stop floods but leave enough for layering. The brush may look almost dry, but there is enough in there.
Check the consistency of paint on your thumbnail. You are already holding the part in your hand and the thumbnail should be the last stop before the model surface.
If in the course of painting you paint outside the lines, quickly dip a brush in clean water and erase the Vallejo. This works best on a glossy undercoat.