1st Series Hanomag Track Separation?

[Jesse James]

Anyone else have their first series Hanomag's tracks separate at the link point? Not torn, just like the glue bonding it wore off and it just clean separated apart? This happened on mine and I'd like to fix it...

I've tried a couple bonders that supposedly were for Rubber but they didn't really fuse it. I'd like to try fusing the track together to one continuous loop, but I've not had much experience trying a "welder" or anything on rubber. Just plastic.

Anyone have opinions or experience this and fix it? What was the glue you finally used that worked? I'm leaning towards epoxies... I'm almost afraid to try plastic welders or super glues on it though.

Appreciate a little help here so my Hano's not off my shelving too long.

[pickelhaube]

Super glue may work. It will not damage the tracks.

Just get the super thick.

I have not had one to separate on me.

Maybe just a fluke.

You could try heat a screw driver over a flame , melt one side then as quick as you can stick the other side to it.

[rudedog]

i have a hot hobby knife with differant blade and heat settings that's what i use on my rubber and plastic parts to bond them

[Jesse James]

Thanks for the heads up guys... I'm trying super glue. Didn't have thick so trying thinner right now. I'll retry with thick if this doesn't work. I took it down to clean and both tracks had separated. No damage, nothing, just popped apart and were resting there very nicely drooped to the wheels actually.

Looked like a bazooka shot done 'em in.

[tmanthegreat]

If super gluing the pieces does not hold, you may consider making something of a brace using thin styrene or even the clear plastic found on the bubble of an action figure package. You would cut two small strips that would lay across the separated section and be glued in place on the underside of the track so less visible. The idea is to give the track a little more strength. You could then paint the styrene so it matches the color of the tread more or less.

I've not had this problem on any of my 1:18 or 1:32 vehicles yet, but did have it happen on a couple Unimax FOV 1:72 scale vehicles. The bracing idea worked well enough. Either gluing the track links or using the brace idea, it would be recommended not to roll the tracks!

[rudedog]

might try a hot glue gun the wife uses it for everthing and there cheap

[granch]

I had some trouble not with a track, but with the rubber like, soft plastic gear (Powerteam Elite assault vest and BBI pistol holster belt). Broken, or not working belt stopper.
Finally, found thin but strong black elastic sewing thread in the area for dressmakers in a big store (or ask your wife!!!). Made a hole in each broken part, and pushed the thread with a sewing needle in a double loop way through the holes, a simple knot and finished. With your track, you could use the same way, it should then be possible to move the track when the vehicle rolls without any trouble. Make 2-4 separate stitches. Glue makes it stiff or it doesn't hold on the rubber-like material, solding plastic isn't easy, it retracts when it's too hot...
I also used this elastic thread to make for all assault rifles of my soldiers a carrying strap. Not the best because it is not flat, but it holds the guns on the back or hang it on the figures shoulder and is still extendable for a shooting position... I got the elastic thread (<1 mm diameter) in black, white, brown and flesh, OK for Nato green, winter and desert gear camo. 50 yd for less than 3$.
Hope my english is not too bad so you've understood what I mean.

[rudedog]

killer good thoughts

[Jesse James]

Thanks guys.

Oddly, one track held with super glue, one didn't. I haven't a foggy clue why.

I'm regluing the other track and trying again. How the hell it can glue rubber to metal (gator clips used to clamp it) so well yet gluing it to itself not so well, I'll never know. I'm working at it though, haha.

Trying to fuse the two rubber pieces together with heat scares me a bit. That's pretty hairy but it may wind up my last option to try. One track is holding on great! How the hell did they glue this thing in the first place ya know?

[skypirate]

Maybe Pliobond, it's an industrial grade contact cement. That's what a camera repairman I know uses to glue rubber grips back onto cameras. Apparently there are several different formulations, not sure which would be best. "PLIOBOND is the best choice for seaming, splicing, and bonding of gaskets, rubber matting, belts and hoses to rubber"

I would caution to avoid using it directly on plastics. http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/157544/1740871.aspx

Apparently, Pilobond was developed by Goodyear during the Korean War.

Or maybe rubberized super glue.

They probably use some sort of clamp to hold the track in place for several hours while the glue cures.

Loctite Super Glue Plastic Bonding System?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ecE-EiZruY

[Jesse James]

Thanks sky, I'll check the links tonight.

I reglued the track that broke free again after I scraped some silver highlight paint off at the joining point because it may have inhibited adhesion I figure. I gave it a whirl either way. Next attempt may be plastic welder just to see how it reacts with the rubber as compared to super glue.

I'm definitely going to look into your links though. I'm always about trying new glues anyway, just to see what they can do to improve builds.

[granch]

To fuse and assemble rubber, there is also the special cement that belongs to bike inner tube repairing kits. Now, who knows if it works with the rubber-like plastic?
But, Jesse James, I'm sorry to have to tell you that with all the time you've unsuccessfully spent until now, you would have finished with my elastic sewing thread...

[Jesse James]

I'm trying to avoid heavy mods granch, but I'm keeping it on the list of options. As of today, both tracks are glued using simple super glue from Harbor Freight and they're both holding. We'll see. I'm wondering if heat didn't have some kind of effect? My hano's are up along the ceiling on a thin shelf I built... All my tanks will wind up there eventually, but the hanos and other support vehicles are up there because they're generally smaller and can sit close the ceiling.

Nothing else has suffered this though. Just the one hanomag. Weird.

[skypirate]

You may have a point. Glues can age and breakdown. It could be worse. Bad chemical interactions between the rubber/vinyl tracks and the plastic.

I can't find the any of articles, but some plastic soldier figures outgas chemicals and eventual start to fall apart.

[maritime96]

You may have a point. Glues can age and breakdown. It could be worse. Bad chemical interactions between the rubber/vinyl tracks and the plastic.

I can't find the any of articles, but some plastic soldier figures outgas chemicals and eventual start to fall apart.

The hands of 12 inch Dragon WW2 figures used to react with the harder plastic of the weapons and cause melt marks anyplace they touched