1/18 Tiger II And Jagdtiger Building Instructions

[pickelhaube]

Production is well underway.







All right guys here we go .

Hopefully I can get these instructions done over the long Easter weekend.

This is what you need to build and finish your Tiger II resin kit.

X-acto
Sand paper
Dremel
Modeling putty ( I use Bondo glazing putty)
CA glue
CA glue insta set
Primer paint ( I use auto paint )
Denature Alcohol
Dawn dish soap or other liquid soap.



All parts will need to have their flash cleaned off and holes filled.

BEFORE PRIMER PAINT ALL PARTS NEED TO BE WASHED OR PAINT WILL NOT STICK. All resin parts have a slight oil covering them.
The only glue that will work on resin is CA glue or super glue.

The build

http://www.warbird-photos.com/gpxd/view ... =1&t=28951

[pickelhaube]

Step 1 .
Bottom hull

Here is the parts layout.
Floor
left and right side
bell housing cover for front drive x2
rear idler swing arm x2
3 bulk heads and front glacis plate





Glue the bell housing on the left and right sides making sure that holes line up.



Glue screws to ideler swing arm bolt into place .




This is how the bulk heads fit into place. The bulk heads should line and square everything into place.



For some reason a little must be trimmed off of the center bulk head so it sits flat on the floor piece.

It worked fine on the proto. Go figure



Also you need to trim a little of the resin vent flow off left and right side so the front bulk head will fit.



Here is the assembly . Once it all fits together glue it all together using the bulk heads to line and square everything off.



Once everything is glued tight glue the front glacias in place .





Now after the bottom hull is done you can cut the full length shim off of the bottom of the hull.

The purpose of this trim was to hold the floor off of the work table to align with the sides. Serving that purpose it can now be cut off.

[pickelhaube]

Step 2.
Running gear .

There are 3 types wheels in the K2
1. Hubbed wheel
2. Back wheel ( these double the 1 and 3 wheel )
3. Axel wheel.






Glue the axle to number 3 wheel ( there is 8 of them )




Glue #2 wheel to the back of #1 and #3.

There should be 8 axle wheels and 10 hubbed wheels .



YOU MAY WANT TO PAINT THE HALVES BEFORE YOU GLUE THEM TOGETHER.

If you do this make sure you scrape the paint off of the join to make sure the glue sticks.





The axled wheels fit on the short shafts



The hubbed wheels fit on the long shafts.



It may be easier to assemble the idler off of the hull. Once completed bolt back onto the hull making sure the idler swings freely. Later on once the track is installed you will need the idler arm to swing and take up slack in the track.

Idler assembly
You can glue the assembled idler to the brass shaft.






Main drive

The main drive needs to spin freely so that the tracks can be aligned around it.

Glue the long screw into the inside main drive.







You will have to shave some vent flow ridges to get the nut on the back of the main driver securing nut.






Glue outside main drive ring making sure teeth line up.

THE MAIN DRIVE NEEDS TO SPIN AND THE REAR IDELER WILL NEED TO SWING.
THE ROAD WHEELS CAN BE GLUED THEY DO NOT NEED TO SPIN.




Completed





Repeat other side.

[normandy]

Pickelhaube, your instruction are straight forward and easy to follow. I don't think there should be any problems
with this part of the assembly.
I'm impressed with your design and how well everything goes together. My only problem........as always, is what
paint scheme to choose.
Nice work Pickel!!!!

[pickelhaube]

Thanks Normandy

Other than the tracks and those confounded sockets in the individual links ,the whole project should be an easy build.

[pickelhaube]

Step 3.

Track installation.

Here it is boys the most toughest vexing pain in the tail part of the whole build .

Track installation. The hardest part is cleaning out the tread link sockets.

Here are the tools that will make everything easier.
The rounded scale x-acto blade is a must. GET THE SMALLER SIZE FOR THE THIN HANDELD X-AXTO.
The Dremel is handy to get the most fill out of the sockets .
Notice the bit on the dremel it is a smaller shank bit with diamonds. I got it with a cheaper off brand Dremel at Harbor Freight.
You can do the job with the rounded x-acto but it will take a lot longer.

After this step everything is down hill on the build .

The thin sand boards are useful to getting the flash out of the connecting links.



Tread links on the left connecting links on the right.



Long " J " link ( top ) long strait link ( bottom )



Kind of fuzzy but here is diamond tipped bit.



Using Dremel to gouge out fill.

When doing this step if you get a little sloppy on the socket it will almost never be seen so if you goof not to worry.
Plus if you hit your fingers with the bit it does not hurt at all .



Once all of the links are cleaned up connect them as seen in the picks . Then connect them to the long links.

Connect all of the links together using a pin toward the front bottom just under the main drive . Slide this pin in and out a few times so it slides in easy.

Then disconnect and slide the whole assembly over the running gear.





Once everything is aligned connect with the master pin.
Swing backward the rear idler to take out the slack.



You will notice that the connecting links will only go one one way and that there is a left and right side of the tracks.

The widest part of the tracks go to the outside .

Get over this hurdle guys and the rest will be easy.

[pickelhaube]

Step 4.

Turret assembly.

Drill out holes to accommodates parts.
Sand off pour stubs on the bottom of the turret being careful to sand just enough to allow thickness of the turret floor.





Shave screw areas to accept turret floor. Make sure turret floor is flush with the bottom of the turret edge.




Test try gun support block.

[pickelhaube]

Check to make sure floor is flush to bottom of turret



Drill holes into screw blocks and screw tiny screws and test the join of turret floor to turret. 6 holes need to be drilled.

Then take back apart.




Here are the parts for the main gun.

Barrel
mantlet
support aluminum tube with screw
gun support



Tube mounted to roof of turret screwed to gun mount.




Mantlet slid onto tube mount





Slide the mantlet so it fits tight to the front of the turret.
Twist to align mantlet so pivot points touch horizontally against turret.





Slide on barrel .

[pickelhaube]

Mounting of turret accessories.
Notice that the tracks have a left and right side back pins.





Rear escape hatch.

Make sure the hinge tubes lineup with the panel lines.

GLUE ONE SIDE OF THE TUBE SLIDE ON HATCH THEN GLUE OTHER SIDE OF HINGE TUBE.





Mount lift hooks , vent and anti aircraft copula ring.




Pop on commander's hatch.
Glue round handle to bottom of loaders hatch and mount.

Take care in mounting loaders hatch. The resin pins could ware out very easily do not snap the hatch on and off too many times the hinge will ware out very easily !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[pickelhaube]

Turret tracks.

Notice the back pins on the spare track links . The pins are off set turn this track around and pop it in the holes . This is the right side and all the pins are the same.

Mirror image for the left.

The back tracks face the same way as the front.

[Black_Dragon_One]

U got mad skills

[pickelhaube]

Thanks Black Dragon.

Step 5

Upper Hull

I drilled and re-drilled the upper hull so much to accommodate the pioneer tools that bit looked like swiss cheese. So I just covered them up and decided to make a template for the holes.

There is a left and right side and toward the front of the hull there is a fold over to drill for the sledge hammer and ax.

1 .Cut out drill template turn over and run masking tape on the back of the paper. This will give the paper template some heft

2. Cut along the bottom of the template and go around the glacias and rear hull.

3.Lay the template on the side ( left or right ) and tape with masking tape.

4.Use an ice pick or similar device and mark the center of the holes making sure you mark on top for either the ax or sledge hammer.

5. After marking with ice pick use a smaller hand drill and drill a pilot hole.

6. Come back with Dremel and Drill correct sized holes. Check the attachment pins for correct size.




Left side



http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa62 ... 4a12da.jpg[/img][/url]

[pickelhaube]

Here is the approximate layout of the rear deck.
NOTE -- The handle for the rear deck hatch is missing in the pic.



Here is the layout for the front deck and glacias including machine gun / ball and ball retaining cage.



This pic shows the gear on the left side of the hull minus the towing cable and track cable . Shovel points toward the front of the hull.



Left side of hull showing range rods and tow cable ends less the tow cable. Loops of towing cables point to the front of the hull.



Here are the tow/ track retaining clips that will go on both side of the hull.

NOTICE --

Small ,medium and large.

Small 8 x pieces
Medium 4 x pieces
Large 4 x pieces.

[CW4USARMY]

Wow! I'm so screwed! LOL!

[normandy]

Wow! I'm so screwed! LOL!

The only part you need screws for is the bottom of the turret.......oh, I get it.
I've built a few of Pickelhaubes kits and they go together easily. The tracks will need
some work but thats modeling.
Bring it on Pickel.

[CW4USARMY]

Hey Pickel, any updates on production? I havent been keeping up here faithfully due to extreme travel, but am back for a few and just curious.

thanks!

[pickelhaube]

This and last week have been strenuous with my jb.

I have not had a second to work on the KT.

I should have time to work on it this weekend.

[CW4USARMY]

Amen brother! Same here. No rush from me!

[pickelhaube]

Step 6
Pioneer and deck part installation.

Here is the installation of the front glacias parts.

Hatch covers w/handles
vision covers ( painted gray )
Bosch light
Sledge hammer
Ax



Left side

shovel w/ cover
range finder rods
pry bar
manual engine crank handle



Rear deck

round vent cover ( painted gray )
fire extinguisher I painted gray )
cable cutters ( panted gray )
Triangle vent covers
engine bonnet w/ hinges and handle
center round vent cover
long tube cleaning handle ( ? )



Left side range finder poles

[pickelhaube]

Step 7

Tow Cable installation

Here are the cable attachment clamps notice color codes and the amount on the bottom of the small, medium and large attachments.



You're going to have to cut open the large attachment so the towing cable ends can hook onto them. CUT ONE SIDE ONLY !!!!!!!!!

Once cable is attachment you can glue them back together.



Here is the left side notice orientations of the clips.
CLICK ON PIC TO ENLARGE



Right side notice the orientation of the clips.



Right side notice that the cables run under and over the range finding rods.

Attach the cable ends to their end clips then lace the cables through their clips then glue them to the cable ends.



Left side

[pickelhaube]

Step 8

Replacement track cable installation.

Cable ends glue them after lacing cables



Here is a diagram for how the cable is laced through it's clips.



Here is how it looks installed the cable should fit tighter on the clips. I was not able to tighten then up because the clip were just popped in. When lacing these clips should be glued because this step is very fiddly.

I just noticed !!!
The thin cable needs to go out to that lonely orange clip end to the left.

I will change that tomorrow .



Next is the rear hull parts installation, tow hooks and machine gun ball installation and I think that is it.

Hopefully I will wrap this up tomorrow then it is hard core production time.

[pickelhaube]

All right guys getting close.

Step 8

Rear super structure assembly.

Parts .







The holes on the bottom are for the jack. The jack was used in this location mainly for the Jagdtiger. Some K2s had them some did not. I will supply a jack with handle with the kit. Sorry but there is no picture of it. Something is wrong with photobucket and I can not get the pic to down load.

[pickelhaube]

Step 9

Rear hull attachment.

Slide hull into place making sure the sponson plates are glued tight to horizontal part of the rear hull .



--------------------------------------NOTICE --------------------------------------------

I DID NOT PICTURE THE HULL SIDE THICKNING STRIPS.

IF YOU LOOK AT THE INSIDE OF THE HULL YOU CAN SEE THEM GLUED IN PLACE.

THE ALSO HELP AS A GUIDE IN ANGLEING THE REAR HULL PLATE INTO POSITION.

---------------------------------------NOTICE -----------------------------------------------





Tow hooks.

The pins are a little long. Once installed cut to fit.



Tow hook location rear.





Fender location.

[pickelhaube]

Things left to do on the instruction list.

Front tow hook location.
Bow machine gun location
Rework spare track location ( correct )

[normandy]

Just bumping this up.......