From what I understand VF-84 at this time period had the gold (not yellow) helmets. At some point in the late 80's or early 90's (not sure about time frame) the Navy no longer allowed "colorful" helmets. They passed a rule that 80% or greater of the helmet had to be white (for rescue and visibility purposes?), so gone were the days of super colorful helmets like you saw in Topgun. VF-103 wore white with the same black or gold chevrons and Jolly Roger skull and bones as the original VF-84, just white base color instead of gold.aferguson wrote:do the helmets on the f-14 pilots need to be yellow? I got a couple of the chap mei pilot figures and i kind of like the red helmets they come with. But if they'd look way out of place in the F-14 i guess i'll repaint them..
Did the pilot's helmets always match the colours of their planes? Quite fashion conscious if they did.
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Spots aside, I would say that JSI got the look of the plane nearly correct. Good job on their partdragon53 wrote:1989 (JSI version)

Its also interesting that JSI also took the 1989 version, as this would be the 20th anniversary of that scheme.
On a completely unrelated and somewhat self-serving note, it was also 20 years ago that a much younger me purchased my first real F-14 toy - and the first of many large planes to come - I got my GI Joe "Nightboomber" variant of the Skystriker in 1989 at TRU with $24.99 I saved up in my allowance

Last edited by tmanthegreat on Mon Dec 28, 2009 6:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Funny. I've studied that picture of that guy's 1/48 VF-84 Tomcat and swear the company who made those decals are all wrong. It portrays VF-84 F-14's on the USS Independence when VF-84 only ever served on that carrier from 1960-1969 flying first F-8 Crusaders then F-4B Phantoms. During this time period (late 80's-1994 "last cruise") VF-84 only ever served on the "Big Stick" USS Teddy Roosevelt. And I don't think this scheme had anything but that tan radome nose. I actually never liked the tan radome nose, so I think this 1/48 model actually has a better paint scheme..only by a nose. The JSI is still pretty accurate for the 1989 scheme it's trying to represent. It's only issue is the mold. JSI is using a 1999-2000's late A mold with NACA gun vents and LAU-38 BOL rails. The only squadrons I can think of that would have ever used this configuration would have been VF-14 Tophatters, VF-154 Black Knights, VF-211 Checkmates and possibly VF-41 Black Aces...VF-41 is a long shot.
I still like the scheme they chose cause it is one of VF-84's coolest schemes and their last full vis before they were disbanded and transferred their heritage to VF-103 Sluggers in 1995.
I still like the scheme they chose cause it is one of VF-84's coolest schemes and their last full vis before they were disbanded and transferred their heritage to VF-103 Sluggers in 1995.
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aferguson wrote:can someone post a picture of the helmet apperance from that time period? I guess my red helmet is out then..
edit: actually nevermind...i forgot JSI is coming out with pilots. Those will presumably have correct helmets.....i'll just wait and get them.

sorry, couldn't resist.
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pcoughran wrote:aferguson wrote:can someone post a picture of the helmet apperance from that time period? I guess my red helmet is out then..
edit: actually nevermind...i forgot JSI is coming out with pilots. Those will presumably have correct helmets.....i'll just wait and get them.
sorry, couldn't resist.



phil
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F-14 Tip
Greetings:
Thought this might help some people.
If you want to support your plane on its gear, in the back just in front of pegs where the tailhook mounts in, there is a pretty solid flat part there. A standard size glue stick container is the perfect size to prop between there and your display shelf, table, etc. I used a STAPLES brand one and it fits perfectly.
Just thought this might help.
Corey
Thought this might help some people.
If you want to support your plane on its gear, in the back just in front of pegs where the tailhook mounts in, there is a pretty solid flat part there. A standard size glue stick container is the perfect size to prop between there and your display shelf, table, etc. I used a STAPLES brand one and it fits perfectly.
Just thought this might help.
Corey
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Unfinished F-14?
What are the chances that JSI might sell unassembled & unpainted F-14 kits?
I would gladly pay 100 bucks for all the parts in a bag.
Any thoughts?
I would gladly pay 100 bucks for all the parts in a bag.
Any thoughts?
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Re: Unfinished F-14?
I'd settle for some new landing gear (broken during display only by sheer weight) and a new radome antennae (broken upon arrival).deankleines wrote:What are the chances that JSI might sell unassembled & unpainted F-14 kits?
I would gladly pay 100 bucks for all the parts in a bag.
Any thoughts?
I hope my list of broken parts won't grow any larger.
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I used some of the techniques people have said to use. So did it turn out ok?












Last edited by wolfman1973 on Thu Dec 31, 2009 8:57 am, edited 4 times in total.
Lowering
Hi!
First post here - I noticed that the F14 sits too high on it's landing gear - so I lowered mine to what I think is a more scale appearance. This was pretty easy. The main gear are made to sit at a level that is scale - all that prevents it from doing so are the compressed springs inside each leg.
To remove these, you pull the pin holding the oleo scissors linkage out (be careful, pull the pin straight out, twisting it may crack something). This allows the whole strut with the wheel to be removed - simply fish the spring out of the tube, and then reinsert the strut and the pin. You'll see the main gear has a scale compression on it now.
The nose gear is a bit more involved. You'll notice that the part of the oleo that actually slides up into the fixed part of the strut is square - the part that shows is round and painted silver. To compress this further, you have to file off about a 1/4" of the round part so it matches the square part. Once you do this, the strut will compress further.
Hope this helps somebody - I think my F-14 looks more scale now!
Airwrench
First post here - I noticed that the F14 sits too high on it's landing gear - so I lowered mine to what I think is a more scale appearance. This was pretty easy. The main gear are made to sit at a level that is scale - all that prevents it from doing so are the compressed springs inside each leg.
To remove these, you pull the pin holding the oleo scissors linkage out (be careful, pull the pin straight out, twisting it may crack something). This allows the whole strut with the wheel to be removed - simply fish the spring out of the tube, and then reinsert the strut and the pin. You'll see the main gear has a scale compression on it now.
The nose gear is a bit more involved. You'll notice that the part of the oleo that actually slides up into the fixed part of the strut is square - the part that shows is round and painted silver. To compress this further, you have to file off about a 1/4" of the round part so it matches the square part. Once you do this, the strut will compress further.
Hope this helps somebody - I think my F-14 looks more scale now!
Airwrench
got my F-14 today from WWII Attic. It's certainly a bo-hemoth. Very nice overall but mine had these wierd purple spots painted all over it....anyone else have that?
ahem....some of the spots are going to be tricky to touch up, being over top of maintainance stencils etc but i think leaving some of the spots partially exposed will look decent and give a more realistic weathered look....as opposed to the peppered with purple and grey spots look it has now.
who in hell thought that was a good idea??????
ahem....some of the spots are going to be tricky to touch up, being over top of maintainance stencils etc but i think leaving some of the spots partially exposed will look decent and give a more realistic weathered look....as opposed to the peppered with purple and grey spots look it has now.

who in hell thought that was a good idea??????
i never met an airplane i didn't like...
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Pizzaguy,
I've been anxiously awaiting the F14 stand as my landing gear are broken (maybe you've seen my posts - more to come).
What's the difference/price between the two versions. The shelving I have is 14" clearance so would the stand work in that space (please say yes)?
I love your other stands and will send pics when everything is set up finally - waiting on this big bird to be settled.
I've been anxiously awaiting the F14 stand as my landing gear are broken (maybe you've seen my posts - more to come).
What's the difference/price between the two versions. The shelving I have is 14" clearance so would the stand work in that space (please say yes)?
I love your other stands and will send pics when everything is set up finally - waiting on this big bird to be settled.
"Where's dat waskily wabbit?"
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I think I know why my gear broke. The first gear that broke has no metal rod in the strut like the other gear does. When it broke it caused undue pressure on the second "good" gear causing it to fail at the tiny angled piece that holds the whole strut in from the spring pressure.
I inserted a carbon fiber rod in broken gear but then the other good gear broke at the strut - just above where the metal rod ends about 1/4" above the wheel. The rod does not extend completely to the end of the piece and it broke right where it ends. When it broke, then the other gear cracked (again) right in the same place where I inserted the carbon fiber rod till it stopped against the end of the "tunnel". So, basically I think JSI forgot to put a metal rod in one of my gear which has led to all my problems. the other design flaw is the metal rod does not extend far enough to the wheel and still leaves a very susceptible spot for cracks and breaks right where the wheel connects.
After several breaks on both gear they are shot and I will have to display gear up (or off completely probably as I don't think they will hold together at all now).
Maybe some of you who have no gear problems have the metal rods in both struts. I'm sure they don't extend all the way to the end of the wheel connection though so you are still vulnerable there. Be careful.
I inserted a carbon fiber rod in broken gear but then the other good gear broke at the strut - just above where the metal rod ends about 1/4" above the wheel. The rod does not extend completely to the end of the piece and it broke right where it ends. When it broke, then the other gear cracked (again) right in the same place where I inserted the carbon fiber rod till it stopped against the end of the "tunnel". So, basically I think JSI forgot to put a metal rod in one of my gear which has led to all my problems. the other design flaw is the metal rod does not extend far enough to the wheel and still leaves a very susceptible spot for cracks and breaks right where the wheel connects.
After several breaks on both gear they are shot and I will have to display gear up (or off completely probably as I don't think they will hold together at all now).
Maybe some of you who have no gear problems have the metal rods in both struts. I'm sure they don't extend all the way to the end of the wheel connection though so you are still vulnerable there. Be careful.
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