1/18 scale Lockheed Martin F-16CJ Blk 52 Hellenic Air Force

supersonicfifi · Post by **supersonicfifi** » Mon Jun 08, 2009 7:59 am

Me too ! i can't wait to see it ! i will send him an offer to do it with my F16 too ! it will promise to be a fantastic model !

Nick_Karatzides · Post by **Nick_Karatzides** » Sat Jun 13, 2009 1:12 pm

After placing the cable tape into the base cylinder without spreading clue, I pressed it against the plastic using my thumb, to eliminate any possible bumps or waves that may appeared. Thank to accurate calculations the cable tape ends, came exactly one against the other, almost in a perfect facing touch. To secure the cable tape in this place, I dropped CA glue through the opened holes on plastic.

Nick_Karatzides · Post by **Nick_Karatzides** » Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:01 pm

Nick_Karatzides · Post by **Nick_Karatzides** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 4:31 pm

As I personally believe that following simple techniques and sometimes unconventional methods, result in superior effects, I usually do not use enamel or acrylic paint to wash, because I feel risky when applying the paint mixture and let it run. I prefer an easier technique that can be undone if the results are poor - that makes it the perfect technique. I use hard chalk pastels to wash (NOT oil pastels). The hard chalk pastels, look like a teacher would use on the blackboard in school. Do not use the soft oil pastels that artist use to draw on paper. The hard chalk pastels are easy to find in a variety of colors into your local art store or maybe Wal-Mart if in US or ASDA if in UK.

To do the wash, I use an X-acto knife, a small metal or plastic container, an old brush, dish washing soap and a bit of water. Begin by scraping some chalk powder from the side of the chalk pastel stick, carefully put this chalk powder into the small container and add a tiny amount of water and stir. It is important to add a tiny amount of water in order to make the mixture look like mud - not like soup! For this reason, I use a syringe to add just few drops on the hard chalk pastel powder and I stir using the old brush. Because the chalk powder doesn't mix well with the water, a drop of dish washing soap is needed to break the surface tension of the water and also acts as a "glue" to help the chalk powder stick to the model.

Nick_Karatzides · Post by **Nick_Karatzides** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 4:36 pm

Once the chalk is fully dissolved into the water/soap mixture it is time to "paint" this mixture on the inner embossed detail on the afterburner's area. "Painting" the mixture is simple - just apply it anywhere it is needed to darken recessed detail. The mixture can be applied carelessly, because any mistakes can be completely removed and redone.

When the chalk wash dried, I rubbed off the high spots with a slightly damp dry (not wet) Q-Tip cotton swab (Kleenex papers can be also used) and I wiped the dark color from the areas should be light colored. The high spots were cleaned to the basic finish and the low spots were left black. I did the chalk wash on the inner embossed detail on the afterburner's area in about 15 minutes which makes it a very quick and effective technique. You can also read about this into Steve Bamford's article, by clicking HERE.

Some of the wash mixture is re-applied and the wash being wiped completely out of the narrow points. If you follow this method, it is adviced to not rinse out the wash container till you are finished this job. You will probably be touching up certain spots a few times, so it helps if you're not mixing up a new chalk mixture each time because you kept cleaning out your container of the chalk wash mixture. I repeated the the wash process with lighter colors where needed. Using micro cotton batons found into cosmetic shop for less than 1£, I applied some lighter colors such as yellow, white, sand, brown, burned iron etc & also black chalk pastel powder on the inner embossed detail on the afterburner's area, to make it look weathered and extensively used. I repeated the weathering process until it satisfied me and finally I sprayed a clear coat to seal the chalk powder in place.

pickelhaube · Post by **pickelhaube** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 5:27 pm

How do you take pics wile holding a Dremal ?

VMF115 · Post by **VMF115** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 7:31 pm

pickelhaube wrote:How do you take pics wile holding a Dremal ?

He is not human no one that does this kind of work is human...He must have a third arm.....

flyboy_fx · Post by **flyboy_fx** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:57 pm

HE IS THE MOST AMAZING RIVET COUNTING INTAKE MAKER WE HAVE ON THE FORUM

tko211 · Post by **tko211** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 12:56 pm

Totally Sick! I can't believe the level of work involved to scratch build like that. I am about finished with a scratch built ohka and it nearly killed me. The work just on the turbine fan puts my attempt to total shame. Impressive!

Nick_Karatzides · Post by **Nick_Karatzides** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 11:24 pm

The F-16's hot air exhaust of the ECS (Environment Condition System) comes in two different shapes. The old A/B types come with small cover. Here is the way it is covered nowdays on newest Block 52s F-16C/D. The basic shape of the ECS cover made by plastic card and the air exhaust detail will be added later.

VMF115 · Post by **VMF115** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 12:44 am

tko211 wrote:Totally Sick! I can't believe the level of work involved to scratch build like that. I am about finished with a scratch built ohka and it nearly killed me. The work just on the turbine fan puts my attempt to total shame. Impressive!

No what the just did^ is Sick...no its more in the lines of mental disease something!

supersonicfifi · Post by **supersonicfifi** » Thu Jun 25, 2009 5:59 am

This guy is THE real rivet counter !

Now i really can't wait for the result !

GOOD SHOW !

Philippe

Nick_Karatzides · Post by **Nick_Karatzides** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 10:53 pm

CHAPTER IV - Main landing gear bay construction

The main landing gear bay of this toy is so simple and looks so unreal. I realized that I had to pay much more attention and start scratchbuilding the area, starting from zero. The main landing gear bay is one of the most complex areas on the real F-16 and I had to simulate it on this 1/18 scale model. I did the dimension calculations, sand the outer surface of the air intake tube carefully, cut pieces of styrene plastic card as required and placed them to start the bay's shape.

TEXAS_HOSS · Post by **TEXAS_HOSS** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 1:25 am

Wow, i am Greek American, and i must say, this truly is one of the coolest things i have seen, VERY nice job

Nick_Karatzides · Post by **Nick_Karatzides** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 5:56 pm

VMF115 · Post by **VMF115** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 7:56 pm

WOW this is insanly crazy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great work!!!!!!!!!!

pickelhaube · Post by **pickelhaube** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:13 pm

The air intake case, connected with the lower surface with ZAP cyanoacrylate super glue and the huge (approximately 2mm wide) gaps were filled with epoxy cream. I prefer to use epoxy putty (or polyester filler with fiberglass grains for special purposes) instead of normal scale modeling putty, because it becomes solid rock within only few minutes, it does not shrink or crack after months or years and most important it is cheaper than dirt. Keep in mind, that a powerful vacuum system to suck away the epoxy dust should be always used to keep the workbench area clean while sanding or milling epoxy or resin materials. Using an issued breathing mask and a pair of surgery latex gloves to prevent dust contact with lung and fingers while sanding or milling epoxy, is also an important matter that you should seriously take care of! I personally wear an overall working suit to keep my clothes clean of any kind of dust while sanding epoxy. Some people might find it too much, but I wouldn't like to bring epoxy dust & grains from my work bench into living room and my beloved.

Now that is going above and beyond the call of duty.

I walk in the house throw myself on the lazyboy and ask what is for dinner after a long day of filling and sanding. Throw my dusty clothes in the hamper and take my shower.

This project is looking great !!

Nick_Karatzides · Post by **Nick_Karatzides** » Sun Jul 12, 2009 2:24 pm

pickelhaube wrote:I walk in the house throw myself on the lazyboy and ask what is for dinner after a long day of filling and sanding

Typical scale modeler's return from work bench:

Scale modeler: Yo bitch! Did ya get your fat ass cook some sh1t?
Modeler's wife: Same ol' sh1t U lazy modelcholic mothe'foker!
Scale modeler: Love ya 2 honeybun. Now gime a beer 'n' wash my dusty clothes befor' I got mad 'n' spank ya like the othe' day! Bitch!

flyboy_fx · Post by **flyboy_fx** » Sun Jul 12, 2009 3:57 pm

must resist replying to your post

pickelhaube · Post by **pickelhaube** » Sun Jul 12, 2009 6:08 pm

Nick_Karatzides wrote:
pickelhaube wrote:I walk in the house throw myself on the lazyboy and ask what is for dinner after a long day of filling and sanding
Typical scale modeler's return from work bench:

Scale modeler: Yo bitch! Did ya get your fat ass cook some sh1t?
Modeler's wife: Same ol' sh1t U lazy modelcholic mothe'foker!
Scale modeler: Love ya 2 honeybun. Now gime a beer 'n' wash my dusty clothes befor' I got mad 'n' spank ya like the othe' day! Bitch!

Man you must have a hidden video hooked up some were in my house.

I must find it before it falls into enemy hands.

Nick_Karatzides · Post by **Nick_Karatzides** » Tue Jul 14, 2009 6:04 am

Using 0.75mm drill, a single hole opened on the air intake tube, to later host a pitot sensor which is normally can be found just before the engine's intake fan. This drilling should be done now, before connecting the main landing gear bay construction with lower part of F-16's surface and the pitot sensor will be placed later.

The air intake case, connected with the lower surface with CA super glue and the huge (approximately 2mm wide) gaps were filled with epoxy cream. I prefer to use epoxy putty (or polyester filler with fiberglass grains for special purposes) instead of normal scale modeling putty, to close gaps or build new items, because:

It becomes solid rock within only few minutes or seconds,
it does not shrink and does not crack after months or years,
you can pour to any shape that you want but you need to work fast because as soon as you mix it with catalyst cream approx 5%, you have limited time before becoming solid rock,
you can also put additional layers of epoxy or polyester filler to build up,
you can sand it, you can drill it, you can use any type of scale modeling glue, any type of primer or enamel / acrylic paint on it with no problem,
can be purchased at any good crafts store into 250ml, 500ml, 1lt (comes with a tube of catalyst hardener) or bigger canisters and if you can't find it, fear not and try your local decent hardware store and finally...
it is cheaper than dirt - estimated prices are £3 to £10 depending the canister size, the quality, if contains fiberglass grains for maximum strenght etc.

Keep in mind that the chemical reaction after mixing the filler with the catalyst hardener, produces some heat that possibly effect on thin plastic parts, so test it first before try it on your scale model. I don’t think that the produced heat is more than Fahrenheit 110, but better watchout.

Nick_Karatzides · Post by **Nick_Karatzides** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 10:32 am

Remember that epoxy materials are dangerous when breath or shallow and could result skin, eyes or lungs problems or even cancer when used for long period with no precaution measures. Always keep in mind, that a powerful vacuum system to suck away the epoxy dust should be used all time to keep the workbench area clean while sanding or milling epoxy or resin materials. Using an issued breathing mask and a pair of surgery latex gloves to prevent dust contact with lungs and fingers while sanding or milling epoxy, is also an important matter that you should seriously take care of! My recommendation is to also wear an overall working suit (as I do) to keep your clothes dust free while sanding epoxy. Some people might find it too much, but I wouldn't like to bring epoxy dust & grains from my work bench into living room and my beloved.

Nick_Karatzides · Post by **Nick_Karatzides** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 7:07 pm

The main landing gear bay basic lines were copied from the T.O manual, lined out with green ink marker and later cut 'n' drilled from white plastic card. Blueprint copies enlarged to 1/18 scale, were used to cut the possessors on exact shape & size and later set into place.

Starting to place cables, actuators, fractional DC motors, hydraulic lines, securing hooks & stuff into the model's main landing gear bay. It may look quite empty now, but everything will be in place and look realistic as the project continues.

tko211 · Post by **tko211** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 8:52 am

SICK! Just sick!

Small Scale Military Headquarters

1/18 scale Lockheed Martin F-16CJ Blk 52 Hellenic Air Force

ME TOO !

Re: 1/18 Lockheed Martin F-16CJ Block 52 Hellenic Air Force

Re: 1/18 Lockheed Martin F-16CJ Block 52 Hellenic Air Force

Re: 1/18 Lockheed Martin F-16CJ Block 52 Hellenic Air Force

he is the real mc coy !

Re: 1/18 Lockheed Martin F-16CJ Block 52 Hellenic Air Force