Update 24 NOV: 1/32 Panzer III N ALL FINISHED!!!!!
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- Officer - Brigadier General
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- Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 3:38 pm
- Location: Rapid City, SD
To be completely honest, the jerry cans, along with some of the detail on the rear of the vehicle I was gonna let go. The hull for the ausf. F was different in many ways, the difference in the rear plate being the one problem I haven't addressed yet, everything else is pretty well fixed. It's just that I would have to lengthen the plate and remove the later model gas cap(I think that's what it is) that I already installed and redo it on the new plate, then add the bolts. If it came down to it I could do it, but the motivation to get this thing done is high, but motivation to measure and cut and cut and measure and glue, good lord how I hate glue, is low.
If anyone here really thinks I should do it I will, but I will have to postpone the shipping to get it painted. I'll take a vote, if you think I should make the jerry cans accurate and fix the rear hull just say so and if enough people seem to have expressed interest by the time I get off work this evening I'll crank it out toning and stop by my hobby depot to see if I can find that jerry can kit.
If anyone here really thinks I should do it I will, but I will have to postpone the shipping to get it painted. I'll take a vote, if you think I should make the jerry cans accurate and fix the rear hull just say so and if enough people seem to have expressed interest by the time I get off work this evening I'll crank it out toning and stop by my hobby depot to see if I can find that jerry can kit.
heck i wouldn't worry about it, if you want accurate jerry cans u can always make it a project later for all the cans in your possession. Like I said, i abandoned my effort because...well i would rather be working on the tank. I have a hetzer MG and shield I would rather figure out and complete as it is.
that is if i could get away from painting flat surfaces for a few hours
that is if i could get away from painting flat surfaces for a few hours
see my art and model gallery at http://www.cabebooth.com
for future reference they sell the kit at hobby lobby or at least one with all the world's cans including modern. You can use the 40% off coupon or ebay has quite a few of those kits that people sell for nothing. They are almost like those FoV individual soldiers clogging the search results on ebay for FoV because they are everywhere
see my art and model gallery at http://www.cabebooth.com
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- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 4129
- Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 12:23 am
- Location: Port St. Johns
I might have some 501st Photos coming in the next 14days of Ausf.Ns
I got a book on the sturmpanzer IIIs online from Poland, mainly in referance to 26.Pz and Italy but I am sure it's going to cover 15.Pz and 501 in North Africa also.
I got a book on the sturmpanzer IIIs online from Poland, mainly in referance to 26.Pz and Italy but I am sure it's going to cover 15.Pz and 501 in North Africa also.
good traders/sellers/buyers
Alloyskull(x2), PanzerArm(x2), Ostketten, Mikeg,tmanthegreat,Coreyeagle48
Alloyskull(x2), PanzerArm(x2), Ostketten, Mikeg,tmanthegreat,Coreyeagle48
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- Officer - Brigadier General
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- Location: New Orleans
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- Officer - 2nd Lieutenant
- Posts: 315
- Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:21 pm
- Location: SF
yeah it has been slow going unfortunately, with moving out of a 2nd floor home into a second floor home with no help due to the fact my wife-to-be was pregnant and then the baby came early while trying to organize the new home which includes the model work studio and trying to make a living doing my art. Its been insane. I hope to get this one and others done pretty quick for folks, but I do feel pretty ill right now I think I have just overdone it for too long and now my body is going to force some rest on me. I am excited to do some DAK weathering on this tank though.
see my art and model gallery at http://www.cabebooth.com
salt weathering
here is my first try with the salt weathering technique. All I can say is "hell yeah, that effing rocks" salt rocks in fact. Whoever thought this up deserves and airbrushed plastic medal.
AT first i thought i had too much on, but as you can see it was very forgiving. There is a dried film of saline water under some areas of the paint that i can scratch more if i want to make it even more distressed, otherwise it is sealed in the paint, very cool technique if you have the time for it. Given the result though, its WORTH the time.
all I need now is an OK from panzer arm to make sure he even wants this kind of weathering, as the model p[progresses, washes, filters and layers of dust via powdered pigments and plain old airbrushed dust over spray will mute the contrast and give it a fine subtle yet sever weathered desert look














AT first i thought i had too much on, but as you can see it was very forgiving. There is a dried film of saline water under some areas of the paint that i can scratch more if i want to make it even more distressed, otherwise it is sealed in the paint, very cool technique if you have the time for it. Given the result though, its WORTH the time.
all I need now is an OK from panzer arm to make sure he even wants this kind of weathering, as the model p[progresses, washes, filters and layers of dust via powdered pigments and plain old airbrushed dust over spray will mute the contrast and give it a fine subtle yet sever weathered desert look














see my art and model gallery at http://www.cabebooth.com
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- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 4129
- Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 12:23 am
- Location: Port St. Johns
I tried salt on a 1/72 Ju-188(old matchbox model that "crashed" from getting knocked off a shelf..prob would have worth more if I left it in the box), plus Sugar, pepper as described from a FineModeler's supplement..I don't know if I fully like it..the effect seems too..what do I want to say too extreme, more for a Scrapyard peice vs a in service vehicle...this is from comparing photos of vehicles in the areas I work in..Europe and Italy.
But for something like a Japanese plane where the green paint is stripping from the Alum skin, I could see using salt to weather it for the enviroment...esp for the ease in which you get a result.
But for something like a Japanese plane where the green paint is stripping from the Alum skin, I could see using salt to weather it for the enviroment...esp for the ease in which you get a result.
good traders/sellers/buyers
Alloyskull(x2), PanzerArm(x2), Ostketten, Mikeg,tmanthegreat,Coreyeagle48
Alloyskull(x2), PanzerArm(x2), Ostketten, Mikeg,tmanthegreat,Coreyeagle48
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- Officer - Brigadier General
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- Location: Clear Lake, South Dakota
I have seen black and white pics of Panzer's IV in North afrika that have been sand blasted by sand storms, along with other equipment..................that effect is not that far from reality.........I don't remember the book since I was in middle school at the time and the book was about the afrika korps....it had lots of color and BW pics I think the Book was released in the early 80's...........





Colonel "Madman" Maddox: Let me hear your guns!
Captain Wild Bill Kelso: My what?
Colonel "Madman" Maddox: Your guns! Ack, ack, ack, ack, ack!
Captain Wild Bill Kelso: [fires his airplane's guns] AHHHH!
Captain Wild Bill Kelso: My what?
Colonel "Madman" Maddox: Your guns! Ack, ack, ack, ack, ack!
Captain Wild Bill Kelso: [fires his airplane's guns] AHHHH!
yes i agree the effect is accurate, you just have to consider the length of time a unit was in the n Africa area and what area, some didn't have the sandstorm as often and more access to refits/repaint. But others just looked beaten to hell from extended supply line or just plain having more important things o do than detail a tank let alone shave
I think that as mentioned above that Japanese planes loosing paint and weathered desert tanks (maybe some e front snow camos would benefit from th technique,but it depends of the type of paint and how it was applied (baked etc.)
I think that as mentioned above that Japanese planes loosing paint and weathered desert tanks (maybe some e front snow camos would benefit from th technique,but it depends of the type of paint and how it was applied (baked etc.)
see my art and model gallery at http://www.cabebooth.com
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- Sergeant
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- Location: Great Britain
well i backtracked for Panzer Arm's sake to make it more Libya/Tripoli based than Saharan sand blasted, made it a bitch getting a coat of grau and sand gelb off foquil black primer. especially with delicate parts glued to tank all over.
For future reference i need to buy ELO or some other aid, it was a real time consuming project to undo what I did, then I shit it with MM ACRYL sandgelb and it gooped up all over the model, not a tine detail spray at all, switch to 2 other bottles of MM sandg gelb even mixed with actual acryl airbrush thinner....still gooped. Had to remove effing paint AGAIN
while it soaked in windex then oven cleaner i worked on Ostkitten's 1/16
RC Stug (see other thread) and touched up web ready images of markings to create decals for DAK IIIn tank, that took f-o-r-e-v-e-r, final .psd file was 36mb and one page long
I am finished with Ostkittens' Stug

So having already re-shot the IIIn with Tamiya dark yellow and re-gluing all modifications again I was focused on the one remaining tank here currently on the docket
and got to place some of the PZ IIIN's decals
and god how i hate these Testors decals, they just suck suck suck, especially when you are doing some with work on the "white backing" type and trying to work small THEY SUCK.
I need lazer printer for more options cuz this Testors only decal Inkjet market stinks. I swear the war would be over before i can get around this Pz IIIn's process roadblocks
Arrgh the decals look like i am playing with colorforms all over this tank they are so thick and obvious.
For future reference i need to buy ELO or some other aid, it was a real time consuming project to undo what I did, then I shit it with MM ACRYL sandgelb and it gooped up all over the model, not a tine detail spray at all, switch to 2 other bottles of MM sandg gelb even mixed with actual acryl airbrush thinner....still gooped. Had to remove effing paint AGAIN
while it soaked in windex then oven cleaner i worked on Ostkitten's 1/16
RC Stug (see other thread) and touched up web ready images of markings to create decals for DAK IIIn tank, that took f-o-r-e-v-e-r, final .psd file was 36mb and one page long
I am finished with Ostkittens' Stug

So having already re-shot the IIIn with Tamiya dark yellow and re-gluing all modifications again I was focused on the one remaining tank here currently on the docket
and got to place some of the PZ IIIN's decals
and god how i hate these Testors decals, they just suck suck suck, especially when you are doing some with work on the "white backing" type and trying to work small THEY SUCK.
I need lazer printer for more options cuz this Testors only decal Inkjet market stinks. I swear the war would be over before i can get around this Pz IIIn's process roadblocks
Arrgh the decals look like i am playing with colorforms all over this tank they are so thick and obvious.
see my art and model gallery at http://www.cabebooth.com
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- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 9673
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:52 am
- Location: New Orleans
What is ELO Electric Light Orchastra ?Cabe wrote:well i backtracked for Panzer Arm's sake to make it more Libya/Tripoli based than Saharan sand blasted, made it a bitch getting a coat of grau and sand gelb off foquil black primer. especially with delicate parts glued to tank all over.
For future reference i need to buy ELO or some other aid, it was a real time consuming project to undo what I did, then I ---- it with MM ACRYL sandgelb and it gooped up all over the model, not a tine detail spray at all, switch to 2 other bottles of MM sandg gelb even mixed with actual acryl airbrush thinner....still gooped. Had to remove effing paint AGAIN
while it soaked in windex then oven cleaner i worked on Ostkitten's 1/16
RC Stug (see other thread) and touched up web ready images of markings to create decals for DAK IIIn tank, that took f-o-r-e-v-e-r, final .psd file was 36mb and one page long
I am finished with Ostkittens' Stug
So having already re-shot the IIIn with Tamiya dark yellow and re-gluing all modifications again I was focused on the one remaining tank here currently on the docket
and got to place some of the PZ IIIN's decals
and god how i hate these Testors decals, they just suck suck suck, especially when you are doing some with work on the "white backing" type and trying to work small THEY SUCK.
I need lazer printer for more options cuz this Testors only decal Inkjet market stinks. I swear the war would be over before i can get around this Pz IIIn's process roadblocks
Arrgh the decals look like i am playing with colorforms all over this tank they are so thick and obvious.
What paint did you end up using?
GREAT JOB !!!
ELO is a product made by testors, i hade to find out what it was myself this week when i saw someone talking about it in conjunction with removing paint off a models. It comes in a sort of rouge can and says ELO on can,
stands for "easy lift off"http://www.houseofhobbies.com/flteeloealio.html
stands for "easy lift off"http://www.houseofhobbies.com/flteeloealio.html
see my art and model gallery at http://www.cabebooth.com
ok i am hitting it with a filter, its rare, as in I have never applied MIG filters on a tank with NO camo. I always have camo on my tank, love DAK though
but on this light tan tank i guess i will get to see how well MIG filters really work, usually they just get lost in the camo or darken the whole tank a bit too much
of course thats probably because i painted to dark to begin with back then.
but on this light tan tank i guess i will get to see how well MIG filters really work, usually they just get lost in the camo or darken the whole tank a bit too much
of course thats probably because i painted to dark to begin with back then.
see my art and model gallery at http://www.cabebooth.com
all done
Well she's all done,
he's pics on pedestal and on my desert diorama

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he's pics on pedestal and on my desert diorama

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see my art and model gallery at http://www.cabebooth.com