Cabe

NHoggard12 · Post by **NHoggard12** » Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:09 pm

This question is for Cabe(or for anyone who wants to answer).
I recently repainted a King Tiger, but it seems to light and bright. I was wonder ing how you weathered your hetzer.

thanks

conteaddict · Post by **conteaddict** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 11:48 am

I take and coat the tank with black paint that has been severely watered down. It gives the tank a darker color and takes away the shine.

dfoos · Post by **dfoos** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 4:42 pm

I have a personal favorite "wonderwash".
It is Pelican brand Sepia transparent ink. It can be watered down further, but when applied, it tones down the brightness nicely and then also fills in cracks and gathers around parts that stick up so that the base of tools, boxes, rivets etc... are nicely outlined. the reason I like using Sepia color is that is seems to me to be a little more subtle than black and tends to be smoother (because its and ink not paint). Also, it blends well with the brown, green & dunkelgelb colors of the German armor. It also can be streaked to look like rust, which these tanks had all over them. I used to be able to get this ink in a stationary store, but no one carries it in my area anymore. I even tried other brands of sepia ink and was not happy with the results. I finally just ordered a case of 12 bottles online.

ostketten · Post by **ostketten** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 5:00 pm

I have a personal favorite "wonderwash".
It is Pelican brand Sepia transparent ink.

Where'd you order from...?? I did a quick search of the web, but came up empty. Thanks for the tip, I might try this stuff...

Cabe · Post by **Cabe** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 8:11 pm

depends
if you have an airbrush or not
I use washes of watered down acrylic paint like burnt umber or raw sienna. When I say watered down I MEAN watered down. It it always easier to add than subtract when dealing with paint.

There is nothing wrong with your color being bright on the tank, it is just the first step in painting, you are looking to make your tank look "Faded" or bleached from the sun and dulled by the wear and tear, not to mention dust and grime that builds up. Bright pristine paint jobs are step one in the process, just like the tank in real life, you want to roll it out of the factory and give it some aging
you have many techniques you can use to achieve this, honestly I use all of them sparingly, a good MIG filter to start off, them into the dusting and washes.
But the best way to tone down and unify colors is to use washes or filters from MIG productions http://www.migproductions.com/
you can buy them from just about all online model shops, I am kinda ticked I cannot find any MIG products locally except his FAQ book. I did finds his powdered pigments at a store and bought them all, they never restocked.
But if you would like to try the filter there is a guy with very cheap prices. His website is "Models by Mickster"
http://www.modelsbymickster.com/
or click here to go to the MIG section
http://www.modelsbymickster.com/cgi-bin ... pl?inv=MIG
scroll down to see all the nifty stuff but you are looking for washes, or filters. Filters work really well on toning down and unifying the base color before moving on in your painting process. They are actually created for this specific use, but you would have to mail order them unless you have them locally.

if you don't want to wait for the mail or you have an air brush. I would suggest putting a dusty layer of watered down model paint, preferably acrylic, over the hull. Just a quick pass from a foot or so out low pressure using a light dusty color like mid stone.

powdered weathering pigments can be bought from MIG, but there are also some powdered pigments used to dust, rust or otherwise a model that you can find at hobbytown made by small companies. I can find them here in Dallas Hobbytown with the glues and resins section, but they are out there.
Modelers used to make good use of pastels, like the chalk, they would brush the dust on and that would sufficiently dull down and weather the colors. You can buy a cheap box of pastels at any store that has art stuff, just make sure they are regular chalky pastels and not oil pastels which are more like crayons

But using washes will always be the easiest and quickest way to do it.
There is a link on the MIG site that explains the difference between washes and filters, but I cannot find it now. Good thing I cut and pasted into a word document, I will post that here someday.

but for now here is MIG himself with a small post about filters and how they work http://www.missing-lynx.com/rare_world/rw02.htm

and here a guy on Amorama describes his experimentation with mixing washes using different substance with pics, nice
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op= ... &artid=782

dfoos · Post by **dfoos** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 10:51 pm

ostketten wrote:
I have a personal favorite "wonderwash".
It is Pelican brand Sepia transparent ink.
Where'd you order from...?? I did a quick search of the web, but came up empty. Thanks for the tip, I might try this stuff...

Try here:

http://www.duall.com/store/product/1131 ... sepia.html

ostketten · Post by **ostketten** » Sun Jun 29, 2008 5:03 am

Thanks Dfoos, I ordered a bottle of the stuff and will definitely give it a try.

And Cabe... thanks for posting all those links on filters, washes, and pigments...great stuff.

Cabe · Post by **Cabe** » Sun Jun 29, 2008 5:53 am

rgr,
just remember that having a good set of MIG filters around is always a good buy. I have the allied set and the axis set. As for washes there are only 3 to buy, along with the thinner. I have had great results with all of the MIG products, especially when Mickster's website sells them so dang cheap, some place can really knock the snot out of you over hobby supplies.

Indespensable to me:
MIG axis filter set
MIG allied Filter set
MIG washes and thinner for washes
MIG Pigments rust: new, standard Old
MIG Pigments: Dark Mud, Dry Mud
MIG Pigments: Rubble dust, Sand, ash
MIG Pigments: Smoke, Gun Metal
MIG Pigments: Pigment fixative
MIG: Acrylic Resin for Pigments (for making thick mud)
Silver colored school pencil &
Woodless pencil (graphite pencil) (for sctraches to steel or treads with polished surface due to contact with roads etc.)
Tamiya Hull Red paint (for scratches down to primer coat and interior of engine compartment.
MM Acryl Flat Black paint
Tamiya Nato Black paint
MM Acryl: Pz Dunklegelb paint
Denatured alcohol (for cleaning brushes , airbrush or thinning Tamiya paint for fast drying airbrush medium.)
Windex (or any off brand) (for cleaning brushes or thinning tamiya paint)
makeup sponges (for applying paint chips rust)
scotch bright pads (applying paint chips)
q-tips for precise paint removal
Tamiya weathering kits