Small Scale Military Headquarters

Saw one of these at WM on clearance for $30. I really dont collect 1/18 armor or even rc stuff for that matter, but for that price I could not resist . Even its only for static display. I believe its a DAK or eastern front paint scheme with the long barrel. I havent taken it out of the box yet but I've heard that it horribly fast and like to constantly throw its tracks. There is a battery box mod that is suppose to fix this. Has anyone here tried this yet. Is it worth the trouble?Thanks

FH

If its the S1 version, it ain't worth the effort - especially if you like it as a display model. Mine's so trashed (think I'm up to eight broken road wheels) I'm using it as parts for an armored train, and will try to convert the RC into one of my other tanks.

I've had no trouble with mine. I think it's a neat little toy, especially at $30. I've removed the turret armor but haven't gotten around to fill in the holes.



I'm going to get another to strip ouit the RC to get access to the inside.

TTT

I have no idea if it S1 or not, although the box is marked "New Millennium Toys"
still 21st century right? As for the road wheels breaking off, this battery box mod is suppose to fix that also by slowing it down(lowering the voltage) and keeping it from self destructing so to speak.

I was looking at one of these today....is it worth the 30 bucks? Also...what is this about a battery box and where do you get this modification?

The solid tan RC Panzer IV H is the S1 version. It is an eastern front scheme, but could probably pass for a DAK vehicle. There are two other paintschemes for the RC Panzer IV Hs: S2 (brown, tan, & green cammo) and S3 (tan and reddish brown). The S3 version has some small tooling tweaks that have improved the track and turning performance.

Ok then I have an s3, thanks! I dont know who came up wiith the "mod" but I read in a RC forum. Basically this guy didnt like the way the tank performed and tweaked the voltage by soldering two jumper wires in the the two center battery slots (therefore converting from 6 batteries to 4) and reducing the voltage and improving performance. I have not tried this yet but it seems pretty simple...gulp we will see..

FH

Flak Happy wrote:Ok then I have an s3, thanks! I dont know who came up wiith the "mod" but I read in a RC forum. Basically this guy didnt like the way the tank performed and tweaked the voltage by soldering two jumper wires in the the two center battery slots (therefore converting from 6 batteries to 4) and reducing the voltage and improving performance. I have not tried this yet but it seems pretty simple...gulp we will see..

FH

Let me know how that worked cause they are tooooo fast. I bought two of the short barrelled versions to go along with my long barrelled version and repainted/remarked all of them for the 2nd,3rd and 5th Panzer Divisions. Also relocated and shortened the antennas to come out at the antenna holder on the rear of the tank. Shortening the antenna did not effect the function of the tank at all. Made complete Shurtzen for the last tank along with cutting and fitting of new workable doors on the turret Shurtzen. Have a good one. Sarge

Flak Happy wrote:Saw one of these at WM on clearance for $30. I really dont collect 1/18 armor or even rc stuff for that matter, but for that price I could not resist . Even its only for static display. I believe its a DAK or eastern front paint scheme with the long barrel. I havent taken it out of the box yet but I've heard that it horribly fast and like to constantly throw its tracks. There is a battery box mod that is suppose to fix this. Has anyone here tried this yet. Is it worth the trouble?Thanks

FH

Where did you find this out at and where is it available at? Thanks Sarge

sarge wrote:

Flak Happy wrote:Saw one of these at WM on clearance for $30. I really dont collect 1/18 armor or even rc stuff for that matter, but for that price I could not resist . Even its only for static display. I believe its a DAK or eastern front paint scheme with the long barrel. I havent taken it out of the box yet but I've heard that it horribly fast and like to constantly throw its tracks. There is a battery box mod that is suppose to fix this. Has anyone here tried this yet. Is it worth the trouble?Thanks

FH

Where did you find this out at and where is it available at? Thanks Sarge

The name of the site is RC universe.
It has several topics on this tank, kinda of tough to find though if you are not a member. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4393253/tm.htm

FH

Flak Happy wrote:

sarge wrote: Where did you find this out at and where is it available at? Thanks Sarge

The name of the site is RC universe.
It has several topics on this tank, kinda of tough to find though if you are not a member. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4393253/tm.htm

FH

Thanks it wasn't that hard to find. I even joined up what the hell. I saw the pics where he wired the two battery slots,but what concerns me is a few posts further down some one writes they tried that and the tank quit. Those posts are from last year so I'm going to try and contact that guy to find out what happened. Thanks again. Sarge

Hey no problem
Just keep us updated. Good luck!

FH

Flak Happy wrote:Hey no problem
Just keep us updated. Good luck!

FH

Wired the middle battery slots like he did and now they run half way decent. Still a tad on the fast side but all in all a huge improvement over the indy racers they were. Thanks again. Sarge

Panzer IV at one store in San Antonio was priced at $19.00 so I bought 8 of them for conversions.

Mark

KAMIKAZE wrote:Panzer IV at one store in San Antonio was priced at $19.00 so I bought 8 of them for conversions.

Mark

Mark, which one were they the grey or tan?

Still 20-30 at ost stores here in my area - $35 ...

only a matter of time...

funny thing - one store - the old motorworks troop carrier still sits at $39.99 and all the RC ones are half price....

This is my first reply/post on this forum. I did not see any thread to introduce myself, so I will now. I am 44, honorablby discharged Marine, and I drove LVTP-7's(now called AAV's). I have built and collected models most of my life, even in the Corp I would have a display on the non-inspection side of my wall locker. The CO's just loved that.
I have finally dedicated my collection to 1/18 scale, and Playmobil. Yes, Playmobil. Some of the buildings and trees that they put out in the 80's and 90's fit so well into dioramas. Of coarse, being made in Germany, they are perfect for European Theatre back drops.
I have replied in this thread with a query. I have just picked up the PZKFW IV Ausf H R/C for 19 dollars here in Dallas,TX. It is the Grey/short barrel version. I am wondering why the 5th roaadwheel on both sides hangs lower than the rest. Is this the road wheel that has been breaking off? Has anyone else noticed this? Is this the S3 that will be moded down on the speed? I forgot to get batteries last night and have yet to put it through it's paces.

Anyhow. I am very happy to be a member here. I have found a wealth of info here and probably won't have a lot of posts, but I definately have alot to absorb from you guys. Thanks for having me onboard.

Semper Fi

Anyhow. I am very happy to be a member here. I have found a wealth of info here and probably won't have a lot of posts, but I definately have alot to absorb from you guys. Thanks for having me onboard.

Good to have you! I don't have the new RC Panzer so I cannot comment on the wheel, but do believe it is actually the 4th version as far as paint goes, and the 2d in terms of mold. Hopefully someone can help you with your question.

sarge wrote:

Flak Happy wrote:Hey no problem
Just keep us updated. Good luck!

FH

Wired the middle battery slots like he did and now they run half way decent. Still a tad on the fast side but all in all a huge improvement over the indy racers they were. Thanks again. Sarge

What gauge wire did you use(or does it even matter?) Plus does anyone know where I can find the skirt armor plates?
Thanks!
FH