Small Scale Military Headquarters

I am wanting one of these 109's, and I wanted to know aside from not having the swastikas on the tails is there anything about the BF-109G-6's that need to be addressed?
I am interested in the Gunther Rall version. browsing in the toy department at the local Walmart this past weekend, they had 3 of the "Sahl" 109's and I must confess its the first time I have seen one of these up close and it looked really nice. then after looking at all the other versions on various websites, I have decided I want the Gunther rall version.
But I would appreciate any criticisms about these in regards to accuracy, problems with various parts(landing gear etc.etc.) Anything you cvan think of. It will be my first 1/18 Bf 109.

The Rall 109 is simply outstanding. For the money it is one of the best models 21st Century has produced. As is, it is very detailed with a great cockpit and paint job. The level you wish to detail is up to you.

The “tweeking” I decided to perform is replace and move the antenna mast forward, add the brace on the rear canopy, drill out the MG barrels, replace the under wing cannon barrels with brass tube, add the loop antenna and mount, add the attachment point on the rudder and antenna wire, drill out the lift ports on both the starboard and port side, sand down the landing gear braces in order to allow the gear struts to “toe out” and gave the bird an over all weathering.

Yoxford wrote:The Rall 109 is simply outstanding. For the money it is one of the best models 21st Century has produced. As is, it is very detailed with a great cockpit and paint job. The level you wish to detail is up to you.

The “tweeking” I decided to perform is replace and move the antenna mast forward, add the brace on the rear canopy, drill out the MG barrels, replace the under wing cannon barrels with brass tube, add the loop antenna and mount, add the attachment point on the rudder and antenna wire, drill out the lift ports on both the starboard and port side, sand down the landing gear braces in order to allow the gear struts to “toe out” and gave the bird an over all weathering.

Sounds like Yoxford has the bases covered.. I did the antenna move and the landing gear adjustment and it made my 109 looks tons better..

What part of the landing gear braces do you sand down to give the undercarriage the "toe out" effect?
Do you have pics of your BF-109 so that I can see what I need to do on mine when I get it ? It sure would help. I have absolutly nothing as far as refference materiel on this aircraft.

It does look great!! I bought one a few days ago.

Yoxford wrote:The Rall 109 is simply outstanding. For the money it is one of the best models 21st Century has produced. As is, it is very detailed with a great cockpit and paint job. The level you wish to detail is up to you.

The “tweeking” I decided to perform is replace and move the antenna mast forward, add the brace on the rear canopy, drill out the MG barrels, replace the under wing cannon barrels with brass tube, add the loop antenna and mount, add the attachment point on the rudder and antenna wire, drill out the lift ports on both the starboard and port side, sand down the landing gear braces in order to allow the gear struts to “toe out” and gave the bird an over all weathering.

What is this brace????? any pics?

Also that wheel in the cockpit on the left side of the seat turns, I don’t remember what it was called but they controlled the flaps and the stabilizer, since the Germans did not have no movable trim tab controls on the ailerons or rudder
The navigation lights and all the control surfaces also work.
A nice touch 21st!!!!!

No please can you do it to the FW 190?

Here are two shots of Rall's ride, but I must apologize as they were taken before I strung the antenna wire. I will post better shots with more attention to the landing strut "toe out" ASAP.

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/518/newpic006mv4.jpg

http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/9991 ... 010lp5.jpg

I have pictures of before and after, but I'll have to locate them. There is a spring loaded arm the "locks" the gear down. The end has a lazy "C" shape to it and when it's down and locked, you can see which part comes in contact with the gear leg. By filing or sanding that arm down carefully, you can adjust the "toe out" stand of the gear leg when down. Make sure both sides are even...and take your time. Sand off too much and it's difficult to repair. Currently, I have a 109G6 in mod....but I don't think you want to try this one. Both cannon were removed from the under-wing stations and the holes filled. Screen material was placed in all radiator openings, the gear was fixed (as above) and the RDF loop was added. I am scratch building an "Erle Haub" canopy from brass and Theraform and adding details in the cockpit. Eventually, it will receive Hartmann's markings and a few more odds and ends. Right now, the form to make the clear canopy is almost done (MAN!!! that's alot of sanding!).