Question about paint.

[kevrut]

I'm working on the 1st Cav Huey.(I've got two of them.) I want to make one of them a Dustoff. Before I paint the red crosses, should I paint over the Indian, swords on the nose, and the flag toward the rear on the Huey? And what is the best brand paint to do this with?
I'm surprised 21C didn't already do this one instead of the silver Huey. Thanks, Kevin.

[Folkwulfe]

Try this site http://www.dustoff.org/ for some pretty good info and pictures on various helo configurations related to Dustoff through the years.

[kevrut]

Thanks, Folkwulfe.
Does anyone suggest either spray paint or brush paint for this kind of custom work?

[USCGSARdog]

I would always use an air brush or if you don't have that at least use a rattle can. I use spray paint quite often with excellent results. Take your time masking areas you don't want painted and clean the surface well, you are almost assured good results. Just remember that several light coats are better than one heavy coat.

About the only time I'll break out the ol' Aztek is when I can't find the color I need in a rattle can, or I'm painting a smaller area. Spray paint offers fewer colors than acrylic air brush paints. There is still an amazing array of colors available in sprays but if you are looking for the "perfect match" you may have a harder time finding it. I think the color you would need for your Huey (someone correct me if I'm wrong) is Helo Drab. I believe you can get it in the Model Master spray line.

If you need any help, LMK! Keep us posted. (I love custom projects!! )

-Rob

[GooglyDoogly]

Are you talking about a complete re-paint or just painting the crosses?

If you're re-painting the whole thing, I suggest Testor's Olive Drab spray can. They're readily available almost everywhere, plus you get a pretty good consistency with it.

If you're only painting the crosses, personally, I'd recommend getting a relatively cheap airbrush and use Tamiya acrylic paints. This way, you're paintjob would be thin and even, and no visible brush stroke.

I recommend Tamiya acrylic paints because from my experience, they are easily thinned, and you can use regular alcohol as thinner and cleaner. Plus, it's not as messy as enamel, which is oil-based. I'd rather smell alcohol over paint thinner anyday.

[kevrut]

Thanks guys. I have never used an airbrush before. I guess I should look into that too. I just wanted to cover up the Indian and swords.(Not a total repaint.) I guess I'll have to do some tinting myself. Do you think if I used brush paints I could "dry brush" the crosses on without it looking too bad? I have been teaching my daughter how to paint ceramics the last couple years, and this is one method that eliminates brush marks. I guess I'll have to do a test pattern first. Thanks, Kevin.

[problemchild]

I would knock down any decals with fine sand paper.Then spray with spray can as recommended.The reason I say sand down is because red has a tendency to bleed through colors.I use an airbrush but a spray can will do If you don't lay spray down to heavy all at once.I would get a flat base paint as well stay away from gloss.

[Folkwulfe]

A few words on "rattle cans" before you try the Huey. Covering already applied decals is not very good. The raised portions of the decal will always show through. At just about any grocery store, look in the cosmetic isles for emory boards women use on their fingernails. I personally like the kind that has four different textures on one board. They're cheap and easy to use. Start with the coarsest and work towards the fine...it'll cut the decal down and polish out scratch marks to prep the surface. Recoat the area with your base color, in this case a shade of olive drab. Don't worry if the color isn't an exact match because most "duty" aircraft were painted and touched up several times during their careers. The colors almost never totally matched. Then, after the base has dried (about one day) mask off the white squares and shoot them next. After they have dried, mask and spray the red crosses, but light coats only for both the white and the red. Watch out for "over spray"...rattle cans have a tenancy to spray wide and heavy. Cover everything you don't want to get painted. When it comes to "rattle cans", get a pan of warm water and submerse the paint can in it for a few minutes. Warm paint comes out more evenly than cold...and it dries smoother too. Test the spray can on an old piece of cardboard before painting the model. That way you know how close or far away from the model to hold the can without causing runs in the paint. Keeps too much paint too fast from hitting the model and ruining what you're trying to do. Remember that "rattle cans" are for large paint jobs mostly. If you plan to detail paint in small areas, they won't do. Be careful of cheap airbrushes...they aren't much better than cans. Get the best airbrush you can afford and practise ALOT before tackling the models. Some not too expensive airbrushes when used right will almost draw a pencil-thin line when used correctly. Oh...and you might want to invest in a good compressor. Aerisol "canned air" cans don't last very long and get downright expensive after awhile and don't maintain even pressure very long. Get a water trap (takes the moisture out of the compressed air...less than $10.00) and a good micro-adjustable pressure valve (some compressors already have them) that allow you adjustable airpressure all the way from 25 lbs down to about 5 lbs at least. Normal PSI for painting is between 10 and 15 lbs...test for yourself. With the right equipment and a little testing, you can shoot enamels and acrylics with ease...then it's just up to your imagination....and the stuff works great on ceramics too! Had to buy my mother her own Paasche airbrush because of it!

[kevrut]

I just got back from WM. I picked up a Testors airbrush set to start with. I'll probably upgrade in the near future. I'll tinker with it this week and let you know how it goes. Thanks for the great tips! Kevin.

[JOC]

I thought I would let you all know how I created a Dust Off version more than a year ago. I spray painted over the 1st Cav logo on the nose, and contacted Lair, who made decals for me to use on the nose, both doors and roof of helo. I do not have the capacity to post photos here, but with Lair's help, he came up with a set that would retain its white/red color without any bleed thru of undercoat color. Just a thought if someone is not too sure of how to do it with paint only.
On a side note, if you have an idea and just can't come up with the correct solution, contact Lair. No idea is bad when it comes to mods. He is a great asset.

[eddie372]

Any of you have experience with the testors airbrush mentioned above? I bought one at WM several weeks ago, but have not had a chance to use it yet.

[digger]

Any of you have experience with the testors airbrush mentioned above? I bought one at WM several weeks ago, but have not had a chance to use it yet.

Yes, I fool with the canned air cheapo airbrush and it is like the spray cans - cheap and fun! Don't expect the pro jobs but at the same time you can do simple camos and large base coats with ease. The air can should be kept from getting too cold or it will lose pressure, but you can get some good results after a little practice on cardboard, or cheap plastic toys or whatever. Cut the paint in with Windex or alcohol - the air brush thinner is more $ than the paint.

Whichever you use, remember to keep it moving or you will have orange peel armor

[kevrut]

I had no idea that someone could make custom decals.
I should have posted this yesterday. I might check into it. How much were they? Maybe I'll make another one this year. Thanks, Kevin.

[JOC]

I can't remember the exact figure, but I know it was no more than say 10-12 for three sets. Contact him and he will do you good.
He is a great asset to anyone who wants to modify their 1:18 fleet of aircraft.
One of my other crazy ideas was to modify my motorworks Flying Tiger.
Lair had made decals for sale at BadCat which included the Chinese Markings for the wings,and the Panda Squadron decal.
He made a small number 47 for the cowling (both sides) and also the pilots name under the cockpit. I took a bit of poetic license and dedicated the plane to the old movie "Flying Tigers" with John Wayne. The name of the pilot, in script lettering says ( John "Duke" Wayne). So you see, if you have an idea, Lair can make it happen.
JOC

[kevrut]

Cool, thanks for all the helpful inputs everybody! Kevin.

[3rd Pursuit]

Rather than start a new thread(and possibly embarass myself) I thought I'd ask a paint related question on this thread. I've just purchased some of the Tamiya acrylics for the first time. The bottle says to use Tamiya acrylic thinner to thin the paint; does anyone have any idea what alternate thinner you can use?

[Folkwulfe]

There's several things to use when thinning acrylics. One of the easiest (and cheapest) is windshield washer fluid. Cost pennies and comes in gallon sizes. The same blue stuff you put in your car. There's alcohol (though only a little) in the fluid that shortens drying time for acrylic paints. For the very best (and really small detail spraying) I suggest rubbing alcohol. Very few additives that alter the paint and dry faster. Also easy to clean up...again not very expensive. There's no reason to go bankrupt using manufacturers recommended thinners. There's alot better places to spend your money.

[problemchild]

folkwulf pretty much nailed it.The one thing I found with tamiya is if you add to much alcohol it does not work it turns to paste sometimes I found.I'm trying a gunzy thinner for the first time with no problems.Polly's works well with alcohol never tried washer fluid I heard of adding just a touch with thinner your using I'm going to have to try that.