Small Scale Military Headquarters

Hi Guy`s-on the BCA site it say`s that the flaps on the FW190 are moveable,but someone here said that he had to modify them to be working?are they working or not?
Another thing;I really want a ME109E,but the wheels are pointing in all directions on the pic`s I`ve seen(the 109G are not correct either,but
i can live with that)anyone fixed this?Folkewulfe?pic`s?

Tiger1,
Yes the flaps on the 190s do drop, but they are tough to get them out and probably need to be modfied to drop correctly..

The 109 gear fix is an easy one that I have done on my Sahl 109 and it looks SO much better.. I don't think I can describe how to do the fix on the gear, but I asked the same question a few months ago and someone answered it then, so you might do a search to find that thread..

Nevermind about the search, I found it for you..

viewtopic.php?t=2828

I actually sanded the tab until I got the correct stance, so I don't know how much I had to take off, I just sanded until it looked right..
Hope this helps..

At first I thought the 190 flaps lowered too...then I promptly broke one off of Red 3 trying. The flaps are held by "T" pieces of plastic moulded into the flaps themselves. The flaps DO NOT lower more than a couple of milimeters, so don't try forcing them or they will break (making pictures as we speak...post them later today). When I broke mine, the fix was evident right away. I drilled a hole on both ends of the flaps and superglued a short piece of small brass tubing that the flaps hinge on. The opening for the flaps in the underside of the wing is more time consuming, but easy if you take your time. I used a sharp exacto and cut two small "U" shaped cutouts where the hinge pivots. This can be done without seperating the upper and lower wing halves. When finished, the flap "snaps" into the up position and can be lowered by popping the aft edge out of the recess. Viola...they fit and work much closer to the real deal.

First...we'll address the ME109 gear problem. Here's the way the gear sits out of the box..

and here is the way it should sit...

The difference is in trimming the "down-lock" brace seen here..

By trimming the tooth down a little, it allows the gear leg to "splay" a little and sits more accurately. However, there is no gear strut spring to hold it there. As soon as the model is picked up, the gear drops farther out. Maybe we can work on that one some more...?

Flaps on the FW 190 look like this when the wings halves are seperated.

Unfortunately I already trimmed the "T"'s off the leading edge of the flap itself. However, you can see these slots in the wing trailing edge where those "T"'s ride.

I'll add some more pics later after I cut the "U"'s and glue the brass tubing into place.

OK...after drilling out and gluing brass rod, the flap looks like this:

The "U" shaped cuts are then made after marking where the brass crosses the edges of the flap housing. The cut nearest the fuselage needs to be elongated towards the back in order to give the flap room to droop..

If enough clearance is there, this is what it looks like closed and open.

With the aircraft partially reassembled...

All toll...about thirty minutes for both sides assuming all materials (superglue and brass rod) are present. Take your time cutting those "U" channels. It's hard to put some back if you cut too much out. Hope that helps...now on to reworking those oleo struts!!!

Bada$$!!!!! Great lead through! Well done explanation. Thanks for taking the time to take pics. You should add this to the tricks and tips thread.....

-Ski

Thanks a lot folkewulfe,most informative,good pics...but the bf109E LDG wheels look like they have a very pronounced "toe out" when extended
(at least on the pic`s I`ve seen)BCA have the 109E at reduced price,but
the E looks much worse than the G model-(no moveable slats,and generally looks much coarser) am I wrong?

I'm not real sure about the Emil version. Some of the write-ups on the landing gear problem don't mention a pronounced toe-out. I, unfortunately, never got the E model, just the Gustov you see pictured...and it's being heavily modified from it's original shape. Not shown is work to remove the R2 underwing cannons, raise the tail stab and rudder, and fabricate the "Erle Haube" to replace the greenhouse canopy. A few odds and ends and VIOLA...a G10 version ripe for Hartmann's markings as Karaya Ein. Like I said though, I believe the G and E models both can be fixed for LG by trimming the downlock like above. As for missing slats and other details...why not add your own and make it a one-of-a-kind? Say an early F model?
Oh...and Ski...Do we have a "Tips and Tricks" thread? I couldn't find it...?

Almost forgot to mention...there is a toe-out built into most real tail-draggers. When I was into RC aircraft, most all I built had a toe-out that helped keep the aircraft rolling straight when sitting on all three gear. Don't know why, but it worked great. I got the idea from a Piper Cub owner whom I helped refabric the wings on after a slight crash. He told me it dates back to the 20's when all aircraft were tail-draggers. I'd bet Mr Messerschmidt did that on purpose in the 1/1 109's as well.

Folkwulfe wrote:
Oh...and Ski...Do we have a "Tips and Tricks" thread? I couldn't find it...?

You bet we do! It's a sticky in the Reference forum.

-Ski

Great explanation Folkwulfe. Now I have my work cut out for 2006. Defenitely working those same mods on my 109s and 190s as soon as the holidays are over.

Happy New Year to you and your family Folk!

Best regards.

Eddie

May your heart find what it's looking for, may your sole realize you've already found it, and may you never run out of ideas for "improving" all those marvelous aircraft models....Oh and may 21C finally release that Avenger. Happy New Year guys...

Folkwulfe do you still have those pics about the Fw-190 flap fix?

Yes sir I do....if you'll PM me you email I can send them direct.