Small Scale Military Headquarters

HAHAHAHA !! ....GEEZE I guess 21st. better start makin' midgets for it !

how come BBI figs fit and 21c ones don't?

Good question,..."aferguson" ......that's something you'll have to ask 21st., about !

aferguson wrote:how come BBI figs fit and 21c ones don't?

The bbi figures don't fit exactly, you've still gotta wiggle and squeeze them in the front seats and even then their heads are still above the windshield. And the bbi figures heads are still above the rails in the back.
But besides no drivers or riders, it sure looks nice!

It seems as though their is only one guy that fits so far,...and it's an old "Tanker" that "kevrut" pointed out.

RECALL ? ......What'd'ya' think ?

Use the original jeep driver if you have him. He is small too but has the soft cap.
Though I did snap one gas can holder pressing the can down (it's tight). I guess I was a little excited.

Yeah,...the Jeep Driver,....That's possible too,...but you're still ltd,....to 2 men ! ......but thank heavens I did'nt break anything either !

digger wrote:Though I did snap one gas can holder pressing the can down (it's tight). I guess I was a little excited.

I did the exact same thing, digger! Only it was after the rear axle snapped in 4 places when I was trying to remove it from the plastic tray...oh and the peg for the canopy frame also snapped off. Needless to say I took it back and got a new one and was MUCH more careful with it the second time around.

Note to 21C: if you're going to coil the plastic twist-ties around themselves so much (making it difficult to pull them out through the holes once untied), don't wrap them around the thinnest pieces of plastic on the frame.

fredricchio wrote:Note to 21C: if you're going to coil the plastic twist-ties around themselves so much (making it difficult to pull them out through the holes once untied), don't wrap them around the thinnest pieces of plastic on the frame.

Or better yet, do something like what was done on the smaller 32x vehicles or some of the older XD tanks where there is a solid base with the vehicle attached by a couple screws or the little "key-like" attachment piece. Twist ties work well for aircraft, but I agree they are annoying when wrapped around vehicle axles and the like!

tmanthegreat wrote:

fredricchio wrote:Note to 21C: if you're going to coil the plastic twist-ties around themselves so much (making it difficult to pull them out through the holes once untied), don't wrap them around the thinnest pieces of plastic on the frame.

Or better yet, do something like what was done on the smaller 32x vehicles or some of the older XD tanks where there is a solid base with the vehicle attached by a couple screws or the little "key-like" attachment piece. Twist ties work well for aircraft, but I agree they are annoying when wrapped around vehicle axles and the like!

But then the price of the vehicle will go up even more because of the extra heavier plastic that has to be used to make the base....

I got tired of untwisting ties and wires while trying to remove vehicles off their boxes, and almost braking vital parts in the process.

You may try to cut off the ties at the base with a wire cutter. It's much faster and defenitely safer as far as maintaining the integrity of the models intact.

Good luck
Ed

I always use those little knuckle snippers to cut all my wire. Better to be safe,...than sorry later.

I usually try to save the wire as best as possible (this gets very hard with BBI planes that seem to have the wire in excess.) My reasoning is that if I ever need to stow an item in the box for any reason, then I have something to secure the item back in.

Yeah,..I save all the screws that secure the product too !

Picked up two WC-51's from a Wally that normally doesn't have anything.

I love the truck, but just like the 1 1/2 ton Dodge there are problems for the nit picker in me.

Some of the Con coments are:

1 - The truck is not a WC-51. The model with a winch is WC-52.

2 - The armor plate protecting the radiator wasn't used except on General Patton's Command Car. It may have been a field mod but it wasn't common.

3 - The siren on the fender would only have been used on MP vehicles.

4 - On the 21C WC-51, the machine gun mount on the truck replaces the solid bed front. In real life the the mount sat on the bed front with support legs attaching to the sides. The 21C mount is perfect but has no
bed front.

5 - The 21C truck has a "rake" with the whole truck leaning forward. That was true for the WC suscessor, the M-37, but the WC trucks sat level.

6 - My 21C WC-51 has two distinct colors, OD on the front and green on the "new" cargo section.

7 - The gas cans don't fit in the holders. Thanks to Digger breaking his, I was saved from breaking mine.

The PRO coments are:

1 - Great idea having the top bows just lift up and off so if you want an open topped truck you don't have to break the bows like on the 1 1/2 ton truck.

2 - I love the detail in the undercarriage.

3 - Overall I think this truck is equal to the 21C CC and far above the 21C 1 1/2 ton truck with it's oversided fenders, wrong winch and wrong engine.

Overall, three stars out of three. The Con statements are for guys looking for the fly s - - t in the pepper.

TTT

HAHAHAHA !! ......You know what they say about opinions,.......well regardless,....it's still,...slightly...."out of scale" too !

Don't get me wrong about it though.....I do like this truck,....despite it's flaws !

Thanks for the review on the truck. There is no way I would know any of that!!! I'll pick up my pair when I see them.....

-Ski

Yes - when I sit down with a new 21 century toy - I always have wire cutters and a knife.

I bough two at the $23 list price and I feel I got a great buy. One I'll keep as an open top and the other I'll put a tarp over the top boys....of course as soon as I find the right looking material. It has to look like tan canvas, not like the modern plastic black tarp look of the Humvee. I had wanted to remove the mg mount on the covered truck but seeing as how the 21C vehicle has no front to the bed and only the mg mount I'll just leave the mount without the gun. The gun mount is right on perfect. The same mount was used on the WC series of trucks and with some changes the same mount was also used on the M-37 series of trucks. There is a difference, and 21C got it and they use the correct mount.

Despite my crits, I love the truck. The undercarriage and engine are works of art. 100% right on. I don't know how many hours out of my life I spent laying on the ground (asphalt, dirt, gravel, sand, rock and snow) either working on, or just doing maintenance on my 1/1 WC-56 CC, in the days when I didn't mind doing that, now I just leave that work to my son.

TTT

Believe it or not,....I discovered that just a simple paper coffee filter simulates canvas perfectly,... when painted.

I finally picked up my 3/4 ton at my local WM. I agree with many of the observations made previously. They obviously used the command car cab for these. I shaved off the the hinges on the rear bumperetts, shaved off the siren, removed the grill armor, cleaned up the grill and repositioned it to cover all the lights as it should. Some OD paint finished the project for now. I plan on removing the .50 since they were a rarity on WCs and renumbering the bumpers...someday.

One detail I noticed that they screwed up on is one most would never notice. On the drive line, on the underside, they connected a drive shaft from the transfer case to the winch PTO. Since the PTO was gear driven from the transmission, this incorrect. The drive shaft should go from the transfercase to the transmission instead. It is a simple fix for those who might wish to do it. As it sits out of the box, the truck would not "go" since there is nothing connecting the transmission to the wheels...

TJ

I finally got my truck, and I love it!

One thing...
I easily placed the gas cans in to the holders on the passenger's side door step, no force was needed, so I dont know what you were talking about a few pages back.

i didnt like the Humvee's, they look fake, my Maisto one is better.

And krieglok, there is a connection to the driveshafts from the transmission, it is mounted sideways, not the usual shaft from the end.
If you look closely, there is a box of sorts from the side of the tranny, with 2 driveshafts connected to it, one goes to the winch, the other one goes to the transfer case, which sends two driveshafts to the two axles, front and rear.

Yes, that is the connection I mentioned. It is there but incorrect. The spot the shaft runs to, is on the side of the transmission and that is the power take off for the winch. They(Dodge) didnt power the transfer case through the PTO, otherwise the PTO would have to be engaged to make the truck go. That doesnt make sense. That was the point I was making. The drive from the trans would be connected through the rear cone of the trans to the tranfer case. The transfer case would distribute the power to the front and rear axle depending on position of the selector levers. I am not sure why 21st modeled the main drive coming out of the PTO like that. The additional "chunk" on the pto puzzzles me too. The whole point is that the present "21st" shaft running from the PTO to the transfer case should be re-installed to connect the rear of the transmission to be correct. The connection should be under the frame cross member that is bowed to allow clearance for the U joint that would exist right behind the transmission. I have included an image from a 1:35 scale WC52 to clarify the point. You can see the PTO coming off the side of the trans then heading upwards in the photo to the winch. The main drive shaft is coming from the cone(rear) of the trans down in the photo to the transfer case in a straight line. This model shown isnt 100% correct, but it gives the correct attitude of the shafts in question. Hope this helps.

PS: The jerry cans were a tight fit on mine and the holder had to be reglued on with model glue since the ACC 21st used didnt hold when the cans were installed.

TJ