So far the hairspray idea is getting a big thumbs down on cardmodels.net.
I really hope i can get good at building these things. I just found a 1/33 B-1B kit that i would love to enlarge into 1/18 someday.
It's so big..
oohoh.....one of them do it yerselfer types. Very ambitious. No, i need to have all the dots connected for me.
So far the hairspray idea is getting a big thumbs down on cardmodels.net.
I really hope i can get good at building these things. I just found a 1/33 B-1B kit that i would love to enlarge into 1/18 someday.
So far the hairspray idea is getting a big thumbs down on cardmodels.net.
I really hope i can get good at building these things. I just found a 1/33 B-1B kit that i would love to enlarge into 1/18 someday.
i never met an airplane i didn't like...
yes, but, the more room you have to work with, inside the model too and the curves are easier to form as they are relatively less severe and the tiny fiddly parts aren't as tiny any more.
I laminate the enlarged photocopies of the card model to bristol board and then, reinforce by laminating the individual flat pieces to thick cardboard. The curved pieces you can't do as much with but i find the curve itself makes them a bit stiffer and then you can reinforce from inside once it's glued in place and the shape is determined. I may even put styrofoam peanuts or something like that inside big airplane fuselages just to give some support and to 'push back' should some outside pressure be placed on it.
I've recently started gluing pencils to the inside of long, flat pieces (like the deck of the stern part of my uboat, which is nearly four feet long) to add further stiffness. By the time you get things all assembled you have formed box structures which are now quite strong.
I laminate the enlarged photocopies of the card model to bristol board and then, reinforce by laminating the individual flat pieces to thick cardboard. The curved pieces you can't do as much with but i find the curve itself makes them a bit stiffer and then you can reinforce from inside once it's glued in place and the shape is determined. I may even put styrofoam peanuts or something like that inside big airplane fuselages just to give some support and to 'push back' should some outside pressure be placed on it.
I've recently started gluing pencils to the inside of long, flat pieces (like the deck of the stern part of my uboat, which is nearly four feet long) to add further stiffness. By the time you get things all assembled you have formed box structures which are now quite strong.
i never met an airplane i didn't like...
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Threetoughtrucks
- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 5405
- Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2004 9:46 am
- Location: SOUTH JOISEY
- Contact:
Aferg:
Using your title "It's so big":
http://cgi.ebay.com/James-Bound-007-Wor ... dZViewItem
I guess it's larger than 1/18, but it would go great with a sub. You'd sure be the first one on your block with one of these.......maybe the only one in your country with one......
TTT
Using your title "It's so big":
http://cgi.ebay.com/James-Bound-007-Wor ... dZViewItem
I guess it's larger than 1/18, but it would go great with a sub. You'd sure be the first one on your block with one of these.......maybe the only one in your country with one......
TTT
Sometimes I am the windshield, sometimes, I am the bug.
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FieroDude
- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 1669
- Joined: Tue Sep 26, 2006 8:09 pm
- Location: Sister Lakes, MI
One reason we liked the hairspray approach for "sealing" pastel pictures is that most kinds don't leave a noticeable film or finish--it dries pretty much invisible, and helped maintain the soft, flat finish of the pastels.
Verraten und verkauft,
zu lange vertröstet zu lange belogen
Verraten und verkauft,
Durch den Dreck und über den Tisch gezogen.
H.R.K 1993
zu lange vertröstet zu lange belogen
Verraten und verkauft,
Durch den Dreck und über den Tisch gezogen.
H.R.K 1993
more thumbs up for hairspray now..
Here's a 20 foot long Yamoto (sci fi version) built from a scaled up paper model:
http://www30.tok2.com/home/tdf99/yamato.htm
Here's a 20 foot long Yamoto (sci fi version) built from a scaled up paper model:
http://www30.tok2.com/home/tdf99/yamato.htm
i never met an airplane i didn't like...
-
FieroDude
- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 1669
- Joined: Tue Sep 26, 2006 8:09 pm
- Location: Sister Lakes, MI
Impressive! Always did love Starblazers! Seeing the Yamato in something other than a 6-inch long plastic or die-cast toy certainly puts it in a new light!
Something that may be worth trying for certain larger portions of a hull is foam core, however it has some downsides, too: if you paint one side, it tends to bow in that direction. At least, that is my experience using heavier applications (brushed) of water-based paints. Spray enamels or even light coats with water-based airbrush paints may not have the same reaction. However, this may be a good way to get a gentle curve on a larger surface, such as a hull. You can also get tight 90-degree corners by using an exacto knife to score the back-side of the panel, cutting a groove at a 45-degree angle from both sides of the fold point--just be careful not to cut through the front layer--just the back layer of paper and foam.. Adjust the angle of the cuts accordingly for different angles, then use spray glue or a light bead of hot glue in the groove to "lock in" the angle.
For more detailed surfaces without contours, I print out the desired section on a color printer oh heavier-weight laser paper and use spray glue to attach it to the foam core. This keeps the loam core from warping and also provides a strong light-weight piece. Much stiffer than paperboard of the same weight. Plus it is more resistant to moisture and pretty cheap.
Something that may be worth trying for certain larger portions of a hull is foam core, however it has some downsides, too: if you paint one side, it tends to bow in that direction. At least, that is my experience using heavier applications (brushed) of water-based paints. Spray enamels or even light coats with water-based airbrush paints may not have the same reaction. However, this may be a good way to get a gentle curve on a larger surface, such as a hull. You can also get tight 90-degree corners by using an exacto knife to score the back-side of the panel, cutting a groove at a 45-degree angle from both sides of the fold point--just be careful not to cut through the front layer--just the back layer of paper and foam.. Adjust the angle of the cuts accordingly for different angles, then use spray glue or a light bead of hot glue in the groove to "lock in" the angle.
For more detailed surfaces without contours, I print out the desired section on a color printer oh heavier-weight laser paper and use spray glue to attach it to the foam core. This keeps the loam core from warping and also provides a strong light-weight piece. Much stiffer than paperboard of the same weight. Plus it is more resistant to moisture and pretty cheap.
Verraten und verkauft,
zu lange vertröstet zu lange belogen
Verraten und verkauft,
Durch den Dreck und über den Tisch gezogen.
H.R.K 1993
zu lange vertröstet zu lange belogen
Verraten und verkauft,
Durch den Dreck und über den Tisch gezogen.
H.R.K 1993
-
pickelhaube
- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 9673
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:52 am
- Location: New Orleans
Hey Aferguson,
You are using paper on this project . Why don't you use a paper mache' way to back up your curves? You can dip the paper strips in flour or liquifide Elmers glue and stick to the back of the curves. The paper being wet will cause a major problem but you could line the back with wax paper or Saran wrap and use this as a waterproof barrior.
If you really have a tough contour shape you can build this up and shape it and sand it to a better shape . Of couse you would have to paint it but just use this on those difficult parts.
Matthew
You are using paper on this project . Why don't you use a paper mache' way to back up your curves? You can dip the paper strips in flour or liquifide Elmers glue and stick to the back of the curves. The paper being wet will cause a major problem but you could line the back with wax paper or Saran wrap and use this as a waterproof barrior.
If you really have a tough contour shape you can build this up and shape it and sand it to a better shape . Of couse you would have to paint it but just use this on those difficult parts.
Matthew
Kirk Douglas : Mine hit the ground first
John Wayne : Mine was taller
John Wayne : Mine was taller
ok, being i'm the laziest person in the world, i've come up with what i think is a quick and easy way to make a full hull u-boat. I'd appreciate comments in case i'm overlooking obvious pitfall(s).
The first step is to enlarge photocopy up to proper size, side and top view pictures of a u-boat i have (this is not a card model but a large illustration from a book). This part has no flaws as i've done stuff like this in the past.
The u-boat will be three, approx. 4 foot sections (doing a 1/20 scale type ix, as the hull shape is much simpler than a type vii).
First step is to make the deck sections, which is easy, as i've already done stuff like that for the waterline uboat i was working on.
Then, i will laminate the hull side pictures to bristol board, creating a four foot long hull side piece. This is also easy as i've done stuff like this before. Then i do the opposite hull side, so i have two halves of a hull for one of the three sections. I then glue the hull sides to one of the deck sections (whichever section i decide to work on at the time).
All this is very easy and do-able....i've already done it for my waterline uboat. Here's the tricky part: For the bow and stern sections i will glue the bow tip (or stern tip) of the hull sides together and then mate the hull sides down the bottom centerline (using duct tape and glue) after curving the hull sides (so, to clarify, i will curve hull sides and then glue them together along the bottom of the hull. I will be guessitmating how much curve to use but i can do it by eye). So now, i've basically created a bow or stern section which is kinda like a cone, glued at one and open at the other.
After letting dry overnight i then cram the bow (or stern) section full of crumpled up newspaper to bulk it out, giving it a nice rounded shape and this also gives some support from the inside against external pressure. I plan to really cram it full of newspaper, so it's very solid.
Next step is the make the middle section, in the same way as the bow and stern sections, except that both ends will be open of course.
Now i make 4 identical formers, which are as close as i can make to the cross section profile of a type ix uboat at its widest point.
I put one of these formers in the open end of the bow and stern sections, so now all the crumpled newspaper is sealed inside and the hull has taken the shape of the former where i glued it.
I put another former in one end of the middle section, let dry and then cram crumpled newspaper in through the other open end then glue on the last former, so the middle section has formers on both ends.
And thats basically it, the three sections should mate together fairly well since the mating sections have identical shaped formers where they meet. I can think of a variety of ways of connecting the three sections, that's not hard.
After that it's just a matter of detailing, detail painting, building the conning tower and other do-dads (a chore but doable).
The tricky part (for me) was how to make the hull simply without going through the considerable effort of building a scaled up card model, which would take a few months probably. My way i think i could do in about a month.
It won't be 100% accurate in shape nor will it be a prize winning thing of beauty but what it will be is a decent looking, 12 foot long type IX uboat, which is light (for hanging) and costs about $100 to make.
I hope my explanation is clear. I'd appreciate comments.
The first step is to enlarge photocopy up to proper size, side and top view pictures of a u-boat i have (this is not a card model but a large illustration from a book). This part has no flaws as i've done stuff like this in the past.
The u-boat will be three, approx. 4 foot sections (doing a 1/20 scale type ix, as the hull shape is much simpler than a type vii).
First step is to make the deck sections, which is easy, as i've already done stuff like that for the waterline uboat i was working on.
Then, i will laminate the hull side pictures to bristol board, creating a four foot long hull side piece. This is also easy as i've done stuff like this before. Then i do the opposite hull side, so i have two halves of a hull for one of the three sections. I then glue the hull sides to one of the deck sections (whichever section i decide to work on at the time).
All this is very easy and do-able....i've already done it for my waterline uboat. Here's the tricky part: For the bow and stern sections i will glue the bow tip (or stern tip) of the hull sides together and then mate the hull sides down the bottom centerline (using duct tape and glue) after curving the hull sides (so, to clarify, i will curve hull sides and then glue them together along the bottom of the hull. I will be guessitmating how much curve to use but i can do it by eye). So now, i've basically created a bow or stern section which is kinda like a cone, glued at one and open at the other.
After letting dry overnight i then cram the bow (or stern) section full of crumpled up newspaper to bulk it out, giving it a nice rounded shape and this also gives some support from the inside against external pressure. I plan to really cram it full of newspaper, so it's very solid.
Next step is the make the middle section, in the same way as the bow and stern sections, except that both ends will be open of course.
Now i make 4 identical formers, which are as close as i can make to the cross section profile of a type ix uboat at its widest point.
I put one of these formers in the open end of the bow and stern sections, so now all the crumpled newspaper is sealed inside and the hull has taken the shape of the former where i glued it.
I put another former in one end of the middle section, let dry and then cram crumpled newspaper in through the other open end then glue on the last former, so the middle section has formers on both ends.
And thats basically it, the three sections should mate together fairly well since the mating sections have identical shaped formers where they meet. I can think of a variety of ways of connecting the three sections, that's not hard.
After that it's just a matter of detailing, detail painting, building the conning tower and other do-dads (a chore but doable).
The tricky part (for me) was how to make the hull simply without going through the considerable effort of building a scaled up card model, which would take a few months probably. My way i think i could do in about a month.
It won't be 100% accurate in shape nor will it be a prize winning thing of beauty but what it will be is a decent looking, 12 foot long type IX uboat, which is light (for hanging) and costs about $100 to make.
I hope my explanation is clear. I'd appreciate comments.
i never met an airplane i didn't like...
-
Threetoughtrucks
- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 5405
- Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2004 9:46 am
- Location: SOUTH JOISEY
- Contact:
Aferg:
How about a U-Boat in 1/40 scale? It is only 5 foot long, a mere baby to you but it sure sounds nice:
http://cgi.ebay.com:80/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... :FSEL:US:1
TTT
How about a U-Boat in 1/40 scale? It is only 5 foot long, a mere baby to you but it sure sounds nice:
http://cgi.ebay.com:80/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... :FSEL:US:1
TTT
Sometimes I am the windshield, sometimes, I am the bug.
yeah i've known about those for quite a while now. There is also a Type XXI in 1/40 scale that's about 6 1/2 feet long. Both are nice. A bit pricey but i know where i can get them for a lot cheaper than that auction. If i was into r/c boats and subs i'd be all over them though.
I've come close a few times to ordering them but balked each time. I'd rather have a so-so model in 1/18 than a nicer model in 1/40 or a superlative model in 1/72 (ie the Revell kits). I think part of it's just the sheer challenge of figuring out how to do it and part of it's the WoW factor of something big in 1/18.
If having top quality models was my main concern, i wouldn't be collecting 1/18, i'd be doing 1/32, 1/72 etc.
I just like the bigness and boldness of 1/18.
I've come close a few times to ordering them but balked each time. I'd rather have a so-so model in 1/18 than a nicer model in 1/40 or a superlative model in 1/72 (ie the Revell kits). I think part of it's just the sheer challenge of figuring out how to do it and part of it's the WoW factor of something big in 1/18.
If having top quality models was my main concern, i wouldn't be collecting 1/18, i'd be doing 1/32, 1/72 etc.
I just like the bigness and boldness of 1/18.
i never met an airplane i didn't like...
-
Threetoughtrucks
- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 5405
- Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2004 9:46 am
- Location: SOUTH JOISEY
- Contact:
Aferg:
The eBay seller with the 1/40 sub is high priced. I have bought from him a few times on 1/6 tanks that just slipped through auctions without bids.
The guy is a customozer doing some very nice 1/6 work but that's no excuse to pay high prices for anything. I just was unfamilar with that brand sub. I figured you would be.
TTT
The eBay seller with the 1/40 sub is high priced. I have bought from him a few times on 1/6 tanks that just slipped through auctions without bids.
The guy is a customozer doing some very nice 1/6 work but that's no excuse to pay high prices for anything. I just was unfamilar with that brand sub. I figured you would be.
TTT
Sometimes I am the windshield, sometimes, I am the bug.
ok, so my latest idea for making a u-boat is to use styrofoam, as suggested earlier in this thread and to build up the boat in cross sectional layers, each about 1 inch thick (or however thick standard styrofoam sheet is).
I have a paper model that i can use for the templates of the cross sectional shapes and i just cut them out one by one and layer them together. Should require about 150 cross sectional pieces to make a 12 1/2 foot long u-boat. Not as bad as it sounds as each piece can probably be traced and cut in just a couple of minutes.
After the pieces are all layered together i will sand to shape and smoothen, add deck, conning tower and paint.
I still plan to make it in 3 sections, each about 4 feet long. The sections should fit together quite well since i have cross sectional templates to quide me and can sand to fit. Will be easy to temporarily connect the sections using small spikes inbeded in the sytrofoam.
After much contemplation i think this is the best, easiest and strongest way to make it.
I have a paper model that i can use for the templates of the cross sectional shapes and i just cut them out one by one and layer them together. Should require about 150 cross sectional pieces to make a 12 1/2 foot long u-boat. Not as bad as it sounds as each piece can probably be traced and cut in just a couple of minutes.
After the pieces are all layered together i will sand to shape and smoothen, add deck, conning tower and paint.
I still plan to make it in 3 sections, each about 4 feet long. The sections should fit together quite well since i have cross sectional templates to quide me and can sand to fit. Will be easy to temporarily connect the sections using small spikes inbeded in the sytrofoam.
After much contemplation i think this is the best, easiest and strongest way to make it.
i never met an airplane i didn't like...
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grunt1
- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 2979
- Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2006 8:41 pm
- Location: Indiana
- Contact:
aferg if you build this monster you better include purchasing a camera in your project plan.
If not, I'm coming up to Canada to take and post the photo myself!
If not, I'm coming up to Canada to take and post the photo myself!
-----------------------------------------------------------
-------- Need a list of everything 1:18? --------
---------- http://www.sshqdb.com --------------
---- Built by the community, for the community ----
-----------------------------------------------------------
My Store: http://www.battlegroundmodels.com
-------- Need a list of everything 1:18? --------
---------- http://www.sshqdb.com --------------
---- Built by the community, for the community ----
-----------------------------------------------------------
My Store: http://www.battlegroundmodels.com
