Small Scale Military Headquarters

Screwby.

YT wrote:Screwby.

?

pickelhaube wrote:

YT wrote:Screwby.

?

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Screwby
A word invented by Stafford in Generation Kill meaning either "that sucks" or "that's cool".

In this case cool, sorry I have been listening to the Generation Kill audio book...

This is a cool pic...

I'm looking forward to this, but in 1:18.

That Hortons engines are wrong.

It's a PM kit from Turkey.........

Jnewboy wrote:That Hortons engines are wrong.

Yes they are.

I think this is somebodies idea of a night fighter. It has an elongated canopy.

But it still looks cool.

Also in the New Capt. America trailer they showed a glimpse of the flying wing in flight. Just the front of it.

I wonder if it will be close to scale or like the Indy Jones flying wing . That one is as far from scale as you can get.

Interesting to see the build. I wondered how you did it. Looking forward to the finished product.

I finally got the nacells roughed in. They are rough as a cob but here are a few progress pics.

By far the intakes have been the most challenging thing on the project.

I think I captured the look of them. They definatly give the 229 it's signature look.

I fidel farted around for about a day trying to use the 262 intakes but just trashed them and made all new. I wished I had done this from the start . It would have saved me a day

These pics are the result of 3 days of work






Daddy's little helper giving moral support

You're doing great! looks very good!!

That looks great! In progress it looks like the one at the Smithsonian!

It's coming along nicely!!

great work!

I'm struck by the differences in what I'm doing with my 3D printing experiments and the traditional methods you use. With the 3D printer, if I can model the shape on the computer, I can pretty much make it in the printer. But I have to deal with the surface finishing issues created by the layering method used by the printer to lay down plastic on every piece created by the printer -- even if it's an exact copy of a piece I've already created. With the traditional mold-making technique, creating the original master shape is painstaking and time consuming, but once it's finished, each piece created from it in a mold made from the master is as smooth as the master.

Some day desktop personal 3D printing will be at a level where the layering isn't so much of a problem but, until then, the traditional mold-making process is still the gold standard.

I sense alot of filler in your future. lol

Things are moving along slow but sure. I have the engines all done and I all I need to do id work on surface details. Before I do that I need to work on the bottom of the aircraft so I do not bugger up the finished detail on top.

The way I am building the main section it splits in half. Top and bottom . The seam will fallow the main wheel fairings in back and cut across the bottom engine fairings in front. It will spit aprx. in the middle of the wing rib lengthwise.

In construction I need to make this separation so I can check alignment and such so I am securing the halves with screws so I do not have to glue and split to open and close the section as needed.

There will be no way to cast the center section in one piece. So it will have to be cast in sections and joined with screws.

You kit building guys will take your own path to use the screws or go without and use CA glue.

For you full build guys.

Would you guys want the center section accessible with screw heads showing or glued shut ?

Remember the center section is huge. Once it is glued shut you have no way to access the cockpit or wheel wells if the situation were to arise.

There is no way to make plugs like 21st has done to hide there screws.

So you full build guys need to give me some input on this situation.

I would prefer screws throughout. Folks who want to can cover them for a completely scale-ish appearance, while others can leave them visible -- at least at first.

I'm curious why you say there's no way to do screw covers -- can't the screw position be somewhat recessed to accommodate a screw cover?

gburch wrote:I would prefer screws throughout. Folks who want to can cover them for a completely scale-ish appearance, while others can leave them visible -- at least at first.

I'm curious why you say there's no way to do screw covers -- can't the screw position be somewhat recessed to accommodate a screw cover?

Yes but from experiance digging the plugs out messes up everything

Ruining the finished surface.

I guess all I can say is how in the hell do you do this?, one after another you put these customs out, someone needs to hire you, your kits could be mass produced

The thing I love about this site is being able to see what can be done, it just amazes me the skills that are shown here.

I am definitely not a "full build guy" but here is my 2 cents

Make screw cover plugs. Just like 21st century did. But.....

Dont make them tight. Make them intentionally smaller than the hole so that when you turn it upside down they all fall out.

Why? Two reasons.

1. It can be taken apart and put back together at will.

2. It can be shipped in sections to its final destination.

I know, what are you talking about? I dont want them to all fall out when I turn it over....

Here is what you do... use a non-drying clay, (modeling clay) put a little dab on each screw head, almost to the top of the hole, then put your cap on (lightly)

The clay will hold your cap on with just enough force, removal is easy, a finger nail or hobby knife can pop it right out without damage to the plane or plug, and you can still get to the screw, just stick the screw driver right through the non-drying clay.

PS non-dry clay cleans up beautiful with baby wipes if needed.

This build is looking very impressive. You are a very talented model builder. Not that you need me to tell you that.

Jnewboy wrote:Here is what you do... use a non-drying clay, (modeling clay) put a little dab on each screw head, almost to the top of the hole, then put your cap on (lightly)

The clay will hold your cap on with just enough force, removal is easy, a finger nail or hobby knife can pop it right out without damage to the plane or plug, and you can still get to the screw, just stick the screw driver right through the non-drying clay.

PS non-dry clay cleans up beautiful with baby wipes if needed.

Totally agree!

Your "little helper" looks a lot like mine. Doing a nice job can't wait to see more pics as you progress. I think having the screw holes covered will look better.

Everybody is missing the point.

The kits will be up to the builder as to how you are going to join your model. You guys can screw them together or glue them.

This is for the guys who are getting the full build.

Either they will be glued together permanently so you have no access OR joined with screws so you do.

That is the question permanent or screwed together.

Can't you make the cockpit open?

See this this link for ideas.
http://www.helmo.gr/index.php?option=co ... &Itemid=35

VMF115 wrote:Can't you make the cockpit open?

See this this link for ideas.
http://www.helmo.gr/index.php?option=co ... &Itemid=35

Yes the cockpit glass will slide open and closed.