BBI F6F Hellcat questions?

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GooglyDoogly
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Post by GooglyDoogly » Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:45 pm

dragon53 wrote:GOOGLYDOOGLY:

I've already ruled out Krazy Glue because it dries too quickly. When the 2 wing sections are connected, they have to be constantly adjusted to be connected correctly with seams fitting together properly, dihedral, etc.
That's why you should get the liquid version of the super glue, and not the gel-type.

When you install the wings of your Hellcat, and you're ready to glue, simply drop a small amount of glue along the crack. Liquid super glue acts like water, and will seep down in the cracks. Then, simply hold the two pieces together for 20 seconds, until they're completely bonded.

This way, you don't have to rush to put the wings together after putting glue on them.

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Post by dragon53 » Thu Sep 18, 2008 6:15 am

GOOGLYDOOGLY:

I was referring to the liquid Krazy Glue---that's what I always use to attach broken parts to my models. But in the case of the F6F wings, there is so much adjusting of the 2 wing sections, even if they're already fitted together, that Krazy Glue dries too fast.
With Testors, I can still adjust the wings long after I've applied the glue. I don't like Testors because of glue smears if some should ooze up through the wing seams.
I was looking for a glue that can be wiped off before it dries (like Elmer's), but has a stronger bond (unlike Elmer's). If someone knows of such a glue, I'd like to hear about it.

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Post by Folkwulfe » Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:21 pm

Well....it has taken awhile, but I am doing the pictures this afternoon for you. Sorry about the delay, but about two weeks ago, I set everything up and charged the batteries for the digital camera. Unfortunately, while setting up the camera, it slipped from my hand and....while juggling it in the typical "I can save it!" moment, I drop-kicked it across the room and against the far wall. Ever wonder what small parts from a digital camera's innards look like? I'd send a picture but....
Anyway, I got a new one (better too) and I should have your pictures on-line later this evening....along with circles and arrows and descriptions of what you can do to fix the wing gap, landing gear extension, and antenna. Thanks for the patience.....film at eleven!
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Post by Folkwulfe » Wed Sep 24, 2008 4:43 pm

OK...There are three issues that we are going to try and cover here. 1) the two gaps (wingroot and wing-fold) in the wings, 2) the gear extention problem, and 3) the antenna replacement. Let's start with the worst and most common reported by people....wing gaps!

Let's look at the gap at the wing roots first. The first thing you are going to have to do is seperate the center wing section from the fuselage.
Image
You will notice that there are four "J" hooks there that fit the four prongs attached to the fuselage. These are supposed to keep that gap out of the wing roots, but they don't work very well. Instead, look inside of the openings at the wing root and you will see a shaft about center of the wing on each side. This is what we are going to use.
Image
I know...I know it's out of focus, but you get the idea. Measure across the opening and you should get about 90mm. Take a couple of plastic wire ties and loop them around those vertical shafts and tighten them till the measure space is about 3-5mm less than originally. The plastic ties will "give" as you re-assemble the center wing section to the fuselage. Once they pop together...VIOLA...no more gap at the wing root....and the ties are hidden under the cockpit floor where they cannot be seen. If there still is a gap, pull the fuselage and wing center back apart and tighten slightly and check again. Make sure the ties are looped around the top of those shafts closest to the inside of the upper wing surface and you should be good.

OK...no the wing fold gap. Alot of the gap is removed when the square post is snapped completely into the wing properly. If you look at the underside of the hinge with the wing folded and attached, the silver pin should disappear almost completely inside the wing. If it doesn't, put your thumb on the hinge and press directly in to the wing. It may pop back out a little when you try un-folding the wing and lining everything up, so be persistant! You should end up with this kind of wing profile when you are done....no glue or mess!
Image

Now for the landing gear. Some people (me included) have had problems with the landing gear refusing to snap completely forward once the wings are assembled. Easy fix! Pull the wing outer panel off and look inside...this is what you will see.
Image
Notice that the top-forward part of the landing gear door is resting on part of the ridges that wing square beam snaps into. So...all I did was sand the corner of that wing fold tube thingy until the gear snapped past the edge all the way down.

Lastly the antenna. Cut that darn thick thread off and throw it away! It's ugy and not very accurate. Go to any local craft shop and look for the spools of copperwire (really thin stuff, but strong) coated with paint that is flexible. This stuff is great. I make coils out of it and replica small springs. Cheap, easy to manipulate, you can cut it, glue it, solder it....what's not to like?
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Post by dragon53 » Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:21 am

FOLKWULFE:

Thanks a lot for the info and photos. I'
l'll try it this weekend.
I don't know where you got long plastic ties like the ones you used--maybe I'll try the plastic ties that come with the BBI models.
Thanks very much again.

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Post by Folkwulfe » Thu Sep 25, 2008 10:54 am

The plastic ties are wire ties found at any automotive store. Get the small ones that they use to bundle groups of wire with. Lots of people call them "Zip Ties" and they cost pennies and come (as you can see) in many colors. Since they are hidden, it doesn't matter what color you use.
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Post by VMF115 » Thu Sep 25, 2008 1:41 pm

Folkwulfe did you swap out the wheels on your hellcat?

Can we see more pic's pf your hellcat?
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Post by Folkwulfe » Thu Sep 25, 2008 1:50 pm

Sorry, but no, the wheels were not swapped out. My Hellcat is an Out-Of-The-Box Vraciu first run. If there is a particular area on her you want to see, I'll be glad to take more shots and post them.
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Post by VMF115 » Thu Sep 25, 2008 1:57 pm

I would like to see the cooper re wireing. please. 8)
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Post by Folkwulfe » Thu Sep 25, 2008 2:35 pm

Have to work on a picture of that for you because I don't have one presently. Here are some overall though (in the meantime)...
ImageImage
ImageImage
ImageImage
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Post by dragon53 » Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:00 am

FOLKWULFE:

Thanks a lot for the help---I stayed up to 2 am working on the wings. You're right about patience--it took about 20 times to get the right wing locked in, but the left wing locks fine. So far, so good.

One more question: can the landing gear be retracted while the wings are in flying/extended position?.....or do the wings have to be pulled out/folded first before the landing gear can be moved?

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Post by Folkwulfe » Fri Sep 26, 2008 10:31 am

The landing gear can be retracted or extended with the wings folded or extended....doesn't matter. Although I'd have a hard time figuring out why you would want the gear retracted while the wings are folded.....lawn dart configuration maybe?
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Post by dragon53 » Fri Sep 26, 2008 11:28 am

FOLKWULF:

"lawn dart"....I was so ticked off for 2 weeks screwing around with the flopping wings, flopping flaps and parts I was breaking off trying to fix the first two, it was more like "garbage dart". Seriously, I read other owners' comments that the landing gear could be retracted only if the wings were pulled out towards the folding positon. Since you have a full understanding of the wing/landing gear mechanisms, I decided you would have the defintive answer.

Also, what are two angled white stripes behind the cockpit for?

Again, thanks for the help with the wings.

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Re: BBI F6F Hellcat questions?

Post by coreystinson » Fri Sep 26, 2008 11:34 am

Be advised that the Vraciu is being re-released, so some showing up in the next few months are probably a new production run.

Having said that, it is my opinion that the original Vraciu run had significant QC issues compared to the Merit "Hellmouth" version, which seemed mostly exempt of issues and more akin to what we expect from BBI.
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Post by Folkwulfe » Fri Sep 26, 2008 11:46 am

Dragon....the two white stripes (one on each side) are indicators for the pilot to find the foot holds that he uses to climb into and out of the cockpit. The foot holds are covered by a spring loaded door and are at each end of those white stripes. And on a sidenote....I looked at the antenna on the real deal and discovered I had a serious flaw....so I am re-doing the antenna and should have pictures this afternoon for you. Simple and straight forward using the same coated copper wire I described for you earlier.

Corey....while the "Shark Mouth" F6F may not suffer from as many QC issues, ANY production model is bound to have something wrong or not working properly. I only hope that, some of the fixes I have used can be of use to others on this board like yourself. Personally, I see the QC issues as problems to be solved and make a mundane OTB model that much better. They say the .3% improvement on anything is enough to be groundbreaking....I like to aim a little higher...but that's just me.
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Post by dragon53 » Fri Sep 26, 2008 11:58 am

FOCKWULFE:

Thanks for the info.

I'm not sure the Cat Mouth is an improved quality control model over the Vraciu---all the owners' complaints I've read about for the Vraciu are valid for my Cat Mouth. I think the only difference betwen the Vraciu and the Cat Mouth is the paint scheme.

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Post by Folkwulfe » Fri Sep 26, 2008 12:06 pm

You are most likely right. Regardless, even the best of them can be "improved" upon with just a little work here and there. I have taken some of these models and pulled them apart to nothing for a total rebuild, but what I like to "specialize" here on this board with are the simple, easy, anybody can do this modifications...such as what you are facing now. So hang in there dude and we will make your Hellcat a one and only, specialy modified and accurized by none other than Dragon53....YOU!!!
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Post by Folkwulfe » Fri Sep 26, 2008 2:33 pm

OK...here's the pics of the upgraded antenna lead. I bought a spool of coated .125 thick copper wire several years ago. There is 24 yards (that's 72 feet!) of this wire on a spool no bigger than a regular thread-spool and it only cost a couple of dollars. It was purchased at a "Michael's" craft store, but I've seen them in other stores such as "Hobby Lobby" too.

Using a large paperclip as a former, the first thing I did was wind the wire around the paperclip and press the winds together. Then I twisted the wire some to tighten the wind and clipped it off forming a small spring. I then took a much longer length of the wire (enough for the entire antenna and some extra) and formed the same small pigtail spring and clipped it so the spring is right on the end of the wire. I then put the long end of the wire through the eye at the top of the tail and laced the wire through the spring and carefully pulled it through until the spring rests against the tail support. Here's what it looks like...
Image
Now for the fun part! I then cut several milimeters off the end of a glue-hypodermic needle to have a small length of very small tubing. The long end of the antenna wire went through the tubing and then through the eye of the forward antenna mast. The wire was then threaded back through the tube and the wire pulled gently until all the slack was out of it. The tube is pushed forward until it rests against the forward antenna mast. You know that first seperate spring pigtail? I slipped it onto the remaining antenna wire and drilled a small hole just aft of the second bulkhead (count one and a half rivet lines) behind where the forward antenna mast attaches to the fuselage. Thread the remaining wire into the hole (I used a pair of forceps inside the fuselage...of coarse the wings were pulled off the fuselage first) and pull all the slack out. Put a small drop of CA glue on the wire where it meets the fuselage and this is what you should have...
Image
If everything has gone right you should have this...
Image
The picture makes it look wavey, but it really isn't. There are a few small waves in the wire (from bending) but that's OK. Most antenna leads are NOT straight and tight on veteran aircraft. The springs wear and the antenna lead will develope a little slack...it's normal.

So there you have it....hope I made it easy to follow and clear. If not, please let me know and I'll try to re-word it to explain it better.
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Post by Folkwulfe » Fri Sep 26, 2008 4:46 pm

aferg.....Just a thought, but should we move this to the "Customs & Mods" area? Thought I'd ask...
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Post by AlloySkull » Sat Sep 27, 2008 5:02 am

I've struggled with antenna wires on my 1:32 aircraft. I've used mainly single strands of copper wire from speaker wire. Cheap, easy to find and fairly easy to work with. The only problem with 1:32 is that usually there are no hardpoints for an antenna. I have to wind the wire around the mast and then if the tail doesn't have a mast, glue it flush to the tail. That actually has turned out well on my Zero and others. On my 262 I did the short and long pieces, it was hard but it gets the effect done. I originally planned to apply it to all my planes but I got sidetracked.

Guitar strings work fantastic for antenna. Lord knows I have tons of broken strings, and I keep them. I use them for AFV antenna and such. A much greater improvement over thick plastic ones. The Marder III looks 100% better with a good wash and a scale antenna. :)

I'm sure the larger strings (E, A, D,) would work great on 1:18 AFVs. If anyone wants some to experiment with I'd be glad to donate some of the larger ones. I've got some laying around.

I'll take some pictures real quick.

This needs to be antenna thread 3000!
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Post by pcoughran » Tue Nov 11, 2008 7:00 pm

Just put my "new" Vraciu together and it seems to have all the same QX issues as the early release. Mine actually came with a severly bent forwward antenna mast which snapped in two when I just barely tried to straighten it. Also, one of the Wheel well covers broke right off the landing gear when I pulled it out the first time and twisted it (the correct direction I might add). One of the "straps" on the fuel pod is also broken off.
The wing sag suggestion worked for me. I still need to do the Wheel extension fix as mine won't stay open either. Hopefully a little glue will solve the other issues of broken pieces. Of all the 1/18 stuff I have this seems to be the worst in terms of QC and flimsyness.
The was a "new" release from BadCat toys so I'm sure it was not the first production release. Apparently, they chose to use the same mold/production techniques and got the same results.
I know some will say I should return it, but too many people return these and put a big burden on the distributors - another reason why this scale is having problems. I will chose to "fix" what I can and chalk it up to experience.
I read this thread before I bought and thought with the heads up I'd be able to work around or get better results, but still end up with broken parts.
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