Hey you custom pros...

[lablksmith]

Quick question for you customizers. Do you use air brush and air compressors regularly? I can make a deal on one, just dont know how useful they are. Thanks.

[Flytiger]

If you have the patience and time to learn how to use one, it is vastly superior to brushes or spray cans. I've used them with cans of air and compressors and prefer the compressor.

Before you attack a model project though, practice on lots of different shapes of surfaces and with different thinning rates. I painted the same test objects (mostly little cardboard boxes) and stuff over and over again before I got the hang of it.

The biggest problem with spraying these models is the panel line recesses in the surface makes masking very dicey. You wind up with paint sneaking into the lines if the mask isn't carefully laid down into the lines.

The other thing to realize is you'll use quite a bit more paint and thinner than you think you'll need as you "warm up" and test various settings to get the right finish. And you'll wind up needing a lot of little mixing bottles to play with getting the color and thickness just right.

The end result is well worth it.

[King O' Fools]

Quick question for you customizers. Do you use air brush and air compressors regularly? I can make a deal on one, just dont know how useful they are. Thanks.

Not a custom pro myself, but if you want to obtain a smooth, uniform paint job with a decent finish while retaining the maximum level of detail (this is applicable to smaller scales only), I’d say an airbrush with a compressor that can supply a constant airflow is a must, IMHO.

[King O' Fools]

Before you attack a model project though, practice on lots of different shapes of surfaces and with different thinning rates. I painted the same test objects (mostly little cardboard boxes) and stuff over and over again before I got the hang of it.

Amen to that, Flytiger.

However, I strongly advise against the use of untreated/uncoated cardboard boxes (i.e. do not use the inside of any model kit box for “target” practice with your airbrush unless you’re testing the paint flow rather than the finish).

Yep, I'm sure we all got lot's of them cardboard boxes lying around in our houses, but in my experience they soak up the thinner to a greater extent than any plastic surface you may come across, so the mix may look right at first (in terms of matt/glossy finish) when sprayed over the cardboard, but chances are it will look too glossy on the actual model.

[sarge]

Once you get the hang of it you won't go back to brush painting. I use strictly acrylics as they are water based and a heck of alot easier to clean the equiptment up with, Just soap and water. One thing with acrylics is you have to use a retarder to slow down the drying time so the paint won't dry in the air brush. But as every one has stated it takes practice. If you get a good compressor that has a regulator and a good quality airbrush you will be well satisfied once you have it mastered. Good luck. Sarge

[VMF115]

Sarge what kind of retarder do you use?

[sarge]

I use Liquitex airbrush medium available at J.C. Moores nine and some change for a 237 ml bottle. I'm sure any good craft place carries it.
Sarge

[VMF115]

I use Liquitex airbrush medium available at J.C. Moores nine and some change for a 237 ml bottle. I'm sure any good craft place carries it.
Sarge

I have been waiting to get into acrylic airbrushing for a long time now, when I was a kid I used enamels and now I use acrylic brushing.. I like the quick drying times

[Rowsdower]

It depends on how much you think your going to use it. No sense spending $100-$200+ on a compressor and airbrush if your only going to use it a few times a year. I'd go with the $20 Testors airbrush and can set to get the technique down at first and see if you want to move up to a compressor or if the simple combo is good enough for you.

[Killerf6]

Another option to buying a compressor, or cans of air, is to get an air tank available at places like Walmart for $20, or $30. I don't actually remember what I paid for mine. The regulator, and water seperator will most likely cost you more. The one I have is a seven gallon one with a max of 125 psi. You can air it up at a gas station, (I air mine up at work) and it last for a while on a single charge, since airbrushes use low pressure, and low volume. And if you use a quick disconnect on the air tank you can use it to air up the tire on your car if you need too.

Now I have a question. Couldn't you use plastic bottles to practice on? I would think that they would better replicate the plastic surface of the models, they come in many differant shapes, and sizes, and most of us have easy access to them.

[lablksmith]

Man I sure appreciate the input guys. I really like the acrilic idea and the air tank idea. I prefer getting tips than learning the hardway. Wish I could get my kids to think that way...

[King O' Fools]

Now I have a question. Couldn't you use plastic bottles to practice on? I would think that they would better replicate the plastic surface of the models, they come in many differant shapes, and sizes, and most of us have easy access to them.

I used to spray-paint the outside of Tamiya boxes for practice whenever a tank hull wasn’t handy (the inside of a hull/fuselage is the closest you can get to testing the paint finish before actually spraying your model). That was back in the days when I assembled my own model kits. Not sure whether there are enough “spare” parts to spray when customizing your 1:18 AC.

Plastic bottles (at least the ones I’m familiar with, here in Spain) behave somewhat differently when sprayed. Paint usually drips even if you apply a very thin coat of paint using an airbrush. (This may have been caused by the paint rather than the bottles; I used Humbrol enamels to paint my models.)

One thing I used to do is over-spray the same surface time and again. (This can be useful if you have to make some minor touch-ups once you have sprayed your model, as some glossy streaks from the thinner may appear because of the over-spray.)

Hope this helps.

PS: BTW; I haven't laid my hands on my models yet (i.e. paint job corrections are still pending for now), but I plan on using a brush for most of the touch-ups.

So unless you plan on painting wide surfaces, I think a brush is sometimes the best option (more so given the detailing on the panels… This is not one crappy 1:72 model where you can actually “erase” the panel lines by appliying a very thick coat of paint).

[sarge]

Go to any craft store and pick up a pad of sketch paper it's cheap and you can practice your technique on it. Thats what we used in tech school.
As for the compressor, I bought mine at WM for $60.00 last year. It's a 2 gal, 100 max psi. and it has a regulator. I love it and haven't had the first bit of trouble with it. The only thing is when you concentrating on your work and the compressor deciedes to recharge itself it'll bring you back to reality in a hurry. WM has a fairley good selection of compressors and accessories and you will need a water trap. Nothing like spraying your final coat and it spits out water drops like it was saving them for a special occasion. Enjoy your air brush. Sarge

[Rogue]

I use a CO2 tank with a regulator.
I had used cans of air at first, but the can runs out at the worst time.
Then a a compessor but I didn't like the water and heat. My wife hated the noise at 2am.
Now I have an old CO2 tank from Schlitz, was for a Keg-o-rator, and is so, so worth it.
No moisture, no heat, no pulsating, and no noise. (since in a bit of a night owl)
I rarely have to fill the tank and a new rig cost about the same as a compressor.

Check with Home Brew shops and gas at welding supply or beer barns.