Battle Damaged TBF-1

Jagdflieger · Post by **Jagdflieger** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:03 pm

Well... My TBF-1 Avenger sustained some "battle damage". Lost the left horizontal stabilizer /elevator to my 55lb German Shepherd. (Didn't know the Germans were active the Pacific Theater)

I have tried to glue it using Testors Model Cement with no luck. Anyone have any glue recommendations for this consistency plastic?

Thanks.

hworth18 · Post by **hworth18** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:08 pm

Get some CA glue (superglue) from your local hobbyshop..

Jagdflieger · Post by **Jagdflieger** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:30 pm

hworth18 wrote:Get some CA glue (superglue) from your local hobbyshop..

Is this significantly different from superglue that is purchased say in Wal Mart or Target?

hworth18 · Post by **hworth18** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:35 pm

Jagdflieger wrote:
hworth18 wrote:Get some CA glue (superglue) from your local hobbyshop..
Is this significantly different from superglue that is purchased say in Wal Mart or Target?

The CA glue at your hobbyshop comes in different thicknesses and drying times.. This is what I typically use, but the stuff from Wally world will probably work just as well..

billgiff · Post by **billgiff** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:42 pm

Loctite Super Glue found at W.M. works great. Be careful not to glue your fingers together.

This stuff glues everything. Good luck.

Jagdflieger · Post by **Jagdflieger** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:56 pm

Thanks lads.....
Model cement accomplished nothing.. I will give the superglue a try!

Post by **aferguson** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 6:08 pm

Loctite is super strong but i find it takes too long to dry. Just use Krazy Glue. Tack the broken part on with the krazy glue and when you are satisfied it is in the right spot run a little stream of Krazy glue along the joined edge. Let it dry overnight then brush a little dullcote on to get rid of the shine of the Krazy Glue.

Wait at least overnight because if you dullcote too soon it will turn white from reacting with the krazy glue.

billgiff · Post by **billgiff** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 6:18 pm

I never had that problem with Loctite. Matter of fact, by accident, I just glued my fingers together.
I hate when I do that!

tmanthegreat · Post by **tmanthegreat** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 6:31 pm

I'm with Aferg in using Krazy glue. I've used it successfully on a number of repairs and customizations and it holds very well! I initially used the liquid version but have now switched to the gel type as it applies easily and doesn't "run," getting glue over parts of the model and creating smudges. The gel also works well on porous surfaces, such as a break in plastic.

grunt1 · Post by **grunt1** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 6:47 pm

I use the 3 or 4 minute epoxy you can get in the auto section of Walmart. Bonds much stronger than superglue and works on many more surfaces.

It comes as a two cylinder syringe looking thing. The two tubes shoot out equal parts of the material that when mixed together create the bonding reaction.

Easyist way I have found is to squirt out a little onto some aluminum foil and mix it with a toothpick. Then use the same toothpick to apply the proper amount to the joint.

If you are committed to superglue, then you might prep the area (both sides) with some model cement first. It will destabilized the surface of the plastic allowing the superglue to mix in an get a better bond.

Rogo · Post by **Rogo** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 7:58 pm

Just curious, but doesn't Krazy Glue cause fogging of finished parts, or is that only with certain materials?

Rogo

tmanthegreat · Post by **tmanthegreat** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 8:45 pm

Rogo wrote:Just curious, but doesn't Krazy Glue cause fogging of finished parts, or is that only with certain materials?

Rogo

Superglue will cause fogging when it dries -- but that is only when it runs onto surfaces when too much is applied. When Krazy glue is applied in the right amount so as not to run or overflow, you will not notice it. That's why I like the gel, as it doesn't run

flpickupman · Post by **flpickupman** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 6:12 am

The fogging from CA glue is requently due to finger/body oils on the area around the spot being glued. Wipe the surrounding area with alcohol before applying glue. I figured this out after I had a perfect fingerprint appear when using CA on one of my pieces.

JohnLumley · Post by **JohnLumley** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 7:31 am

I found a CA glue at my local hobby shop that is designed for plastics. So far I have had great results.

http://www.bsiadhesives.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html

It's the third item down called Maxi-cure.

Rogue · Post by **Rogue** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 9:16 am

flpickupman wrote: I figured this out after I had a perfect fingerprint appear when using CA on one of my pieces.

FlPickupman the CSI!

CA will craze clear parts.

flpickupman · Post by **flpickupman** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:00 am

Rogue wrote:
flpickupman wrote: I figured this out after I had a perfect fingerprint appear when using CA on one of my pieces.
FlPickupman the CSI!

CA will craze clear parts.

Fat lot of good it did me! I already knew who the fingerprint belonged to. lol

Folkwulfe · Post by **Folkwulfe** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:40 pm

Hmmm...some information here about CA glues and the fogging issue. CA glues, like most glues, have a chemical reaction when they are exposed to air. Depending on the type of material they are in contact with, vapors due to this chemical reaction are produced. Plastics of just about any type can cause serious vapors, but paint on the plastic has caused the most in my model building past. This "frosting" is most apparent on clear plastics such as canopies. What I've learned is, once the CA is applied (and use it sparingly!), turn the piece so the glued surface is upper most, and then ventilate the area well while it cures. I have a small fan (salvaged from a computer) that I use to blow air across the surface and vapors away. As for the fingerprint problem, years ago we used to use CA glues on evidence. We built a "vapor box" from a fish tank. A wooden base with two 40 watt lightbulbs were placed apart and a soda can with the top cut off was slipped over each bulb. The bottom of the can (now facing up) was filled, one with a few drops of CA, the other with a few drops of water. The evidence was suspended above and between the two cans and the fish tank was inverted and placed over everything. When the lights in the cans were turned on, the heat vaporized the CA and the water. The CA attaches itself to the water vapor and changes it's chemical structure. The CA/water then attaches to oil from the skin on the evidence and hardens. The fingerprint is now clearly visible and nearly impossible to remove. Of coarse, the evidence is now perminently encased in a micro-thin layer of CA. We still use this method today (yes...I'm a working cop with 31 years behind me). Next class will be on Iodine fogging and butrite embedding. Questions?....class dismissed.

flpickupman · Post by **flpickupman** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:42 pm

Jagdflieger · Post by **Jagdflieger** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 5:27 pm

Wow.. the stuff you learn when you are trying to attach a broken horizontal stabilizer/elevator to the ass end of TBF-1!

STUKA · Post by **STUKA** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 8:51 pm

butrite embedding
sigh....

Folkwulfe · Post by **Folkwulfe** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 9:16 pm

AND.....there will be a written test!

STUKA · Post by **STUKA** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:47 pm

butrite embedding ...
when I google searched this - I was asked if I meant butter...embedding

fuddmiester · Post by **fuddmiester** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:35 am

If possible, waxing with a model wax will prevent the "super glue haze" also. I use this when doing model cars/windows.

Small Scale Military Headquarters

Battle Damaged TBF-1

Battle Damaged TBF-1

CA Glue Fogging

...?