A HS-126 Redo
A HS-126 Redo
I finally got my hands on an Oxford Diecast rehash of the Atlas Editions 1:72nd scale diecast replica of the widely utilized WW2 German army cooperation plane, the HS-126. Like many models from this "budget" series, there were many issues. Chief among these was the all yellow engine/spinner/props, the badly fitted horizontal stabilizer and the main wing which was installed in a faulty manner and tilted askew. Other flaws included overly dark colors, incorrect upper wing and fuselage crosses and a missing antenna----to name only a few. Here's how this model looked when I received it:
Re: A HS-126 Redo
Here's the same model after surgery in my OR:
Re: A HS-126 Redo
A side view:
Re: A HS-126 Redo
And the underside:
Re: A HS-126 Redo
Ed, you've brought another model back from the dead. I like what you've done, and the Hs 126 makes for a good looking model.
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- Officer - 2nd Lieutenant
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Re: A HS-126 Redo
Well that made a difference...Another good job!
Did you know the model had the colour issues before you got it?
Also - and I'm sorry if you've been asked before - What do you use to seal the decals and paintwork?
Cheers
Kev
Did you know the model had the colour issues before you got it?
Also - and I'm sorry if you've been asked before - What do you use to seal the decals and paintwork?
Cheers
Kev
Re: A HS-126 Redo
Thanks, guys.
Kev, I was aware from the pictures on eBay, mainly, about the color issues, which one sees on many diecast models made in China. Even when they get the correct color to start w9ith---it happens, sometimes-----they are oblivious to the "scale effect" concept, whereby the colors should be lightened as they would appear from a distance, or, if they've been told about this, they refuse to add a step to their helter skelter production time tables. In general, the colors should be lightened about 8-10% for a 1:48th scale model, 10-15% for a 1:72nd scale model and a bit more for a 1:144th scale item.
Regarding the markings, after the matte paint has cured, I brush a water-diluted solution of Future over the surface area where the markings will be go to get a glosy sheen. In this case, the paint was semi gloss, so no pre-coating of Future was needed. After the decals are on and dry, I brush a light coat of water-diluted Future over them and the immediate adjacent area to seal them in. Then the spraying with DullCoat begins, lightly, with three or more applications, until I get a uniform matte finish. I used to seal in the whole model in the same manner but found that Future ages and changes colors or cracks when exposed to the elements----so I stopped using it in that manner, leaving it to DullCoat to function as a sealant.
Kev, I was aware from the pictures on eBay, mainly, about the color issues, which one sees on many diecast models made in China. Even when they get the correct color to start w9ith---it happens, sometimes-----they are oblivious to the "scale effect" concept, whereby the colors should be lightened as they would appear from a distance, or, if they've been told about this, they refuse to add a step to their helter skelter production time tables. In general, the colors should be lightened about 8-10% for a 1:48th scale model, 10-15% for a 1:72nd scale model and a bit more for a 1:144th scale item.
Regarding the markings, after the matte paint has cured, I brush a water-diluted solution of Future over the surface area where the markings will be go to get a glosy sheen. In this case, the paint was semi gloss, so no pre-coating of Future was needed. After the decals are on and dry, I brush a light coat of water-diluted Future over them and the immediate adjacent area to seal them in. Then the spraying with DullCoat begins, lightly, with three or more applications, until I get a uniform matte finish. I used to seal in the whole model in the same manner but found that Future ages and changes colors or cracks when exposed to the elements----so I stopped using it in that manner, leaving it to DullCoat to function as a sealant.
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- Officer - 2nd Lieutenant
- Posts: 295
- Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2010 8:52 am
- Location: Southwest England
Re: A HS-126 Redo
I asked if you knew what it was like, because if you were expecting something better, then the 'yellow peril' arrived, I can imagine it would have been a bit of a shocker, but at least you knew what to expect!!
Not allowing for the scale effect can spoil a model - I like 1/350 Warships, and one colour that should never be used is black - for the same reason as you state, if you viewed the real item from distance, the black would appear dark grey at the most, so the same should apply to the model.
Thanks for the advice, I've got a bottle of Future somewhere, I'll have to give this a go.
Cheers
Kev
Not allowing for the scale effect can spoil a model - I like 1/350 Warships, and one colour that should never be used is black - for the same reason as you state, if you viewed the real item from distance, the black would appear dark grey at the most, so the same should apply to the model.
Thanks for the advice, I've got a bottle of Future somewhere, I'll have to give this a go.
Cheers
Kev