After it dries for a couple of days you can buff the freshly painted patch with a old White t-shirt . This will bring it up to a semi gloss. Take it easy because if you buff it too much it will make it high gloss.schizuki wrote:If you're looking to re-paint and re-mark a new 1/32 Action-grade FoV American vehicle with the dark "olive drab" paint, and you want a close paint match to the original color so missed spots don't pop out, I found AeroMaster RLM 82 Dunkelgrun to be an almost perfect match. It's very flat, so it doesn't have the same sheen as the original paint - I don't think it would be a good touch-up paint unless you feathered it and gave the whole model a glosscoat/flatcoat cover.
Tricks, Tips, Hints, Cheats, Tools, Whatever!!!!
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Sniper Rifle Tutorial
Here is a quick little tutorial, I put together, for making Sniper Rifles.
1. Suppies
2. Cut Cobra rifle all the way through at the scope mount.
3. Grind a flat surface on top of the rifle you want to attatch the scope to.
4. Dremel a slot were the flat surface was made on top of the rifle. Use as extra small bit.
5. Use superglue to secure the scope to the rifle.
6. Now it just needs a little paint.
1. Suppies
2. Cut Cobra rifle all the way through at the scope mount.
3. Grind a flat surface on top of the rifle you want to attatch the scope to.
4. Dremel a slot were the flat surface was made on top of the rifle. Use as extra small bit.
5. Use superglue to secure the scope to the rifle.
6. Now it just needs a little paint.
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bad paint jobs or how to remove acrylic paint EASY
I have had a couple of camo ideas go..bad. Either a mess up or just plain looked awful regardless of accuracy or bad ideas.
I have tied ELO from testors and thats good for all paint types, but it...kinda sucks as the paint gets gooey and become a sticky gum. Not the best solution.
Oven cleaner works great if you like dying young and having you skin blister and knuckles crack open like they were stabbed by a giant phillips screwdriver (i wish i had photos..ouch)
Alcohol and windex are good on wet paint and weak on dry.
recently I cana cross a post about removing acrylic paint effortlessly and safely.
Oxyclean
Any knock off will do as well. Get a tub (I use the large plastic ice cream tubs from generic ice cream at Wal-mart (has a nice lid to to keep the damn cats from killing themselves of getting an enema.
I had to try it as I had a 21st jagdtiger that I fudged my camo attempt with too much salt weathering.
So here are the pics as I did my first attempt ever. It worked FAST, didn't harm plastic AT all, came off with a firm toothbrush or with long soaks sloughed off on its own. I did another tank this week and left it in for 4 days, it took off some of the enamel primer, but for the most part all types of paint except Acrylic are immune to the effects. I would think a varnish coating would be obliterated as the acrylic underneath dissolved, but undercoats or even the original 21st century paint job stayed put.
Here is my photo documentary of oxyclean at work, this was the first run and it soaked for maybe an hour. WORKS GREAT!
paint comes off in dry (well wet) strips and chips...not goop or sticky. A sandy or powdery sludge is all you will get. Very good on getting it ALL off and hands down best paint removal substance I have found, especially in speed and safety
I have tied ELO from testors and thats good for all paint types, but it...kinda sucks as the paint gets gooey and become a sticky gum. Not the best solution.
Oven cleaner works great if you like dying young and having you skin blister and knuckles crack open like they were stabbed by a giant phillips screwdriver (i wish i had photos..ouch)
Alcohol and windex are good on wet paint and weak on dry.
recently I cana cross a post about removing acrylic paint effortlessly and safely.
Oxyclean
Any knock off will do as well. Get a tub (I use the large plastic ice cream tubs from generic ice cream at Wal-mart (has a nice lid to to keep the damn cats from killing themselves of getting an enema.
I had to try it as I had a 21st jagdtiger that I fudged my camo attempt with too much salt weathering.
So here are the pics as I did my first attempt ever. It worked FAST, didn't harm plastic AT all, came off with a firm toothbrush or with long soaks sloughed off on its own. I did another tank this week and left it in for 4 days, it took off some of the enamel primer, but for the most part all types of paint except Acrylic are immune to the effects. I would think a varnish coating would be obliterated as the acrylic underneath dissolved, but undercoats or even the original 21st century paint job stayed put.
Here is my photo documentary of oxyclean at work, this was the first run and it soaked for maybe an hour. WORKS GREAT!
paint comes off in dry (well wet) strips and chips...not goop or sticky. A sandy or powdery sludge is all you will get. Very good on getting it ALL off and hands down best paint removal substance I have found, especially in speed and safety
see my art and model gallery at http://www.cabebooth.com
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I've use Micro-Sol on small items to strip the paint off, or remove decals if I didn't like how things turned out...but that was on Tamiya/Vallego acylics..never tried to remove lacquer or enamel from something using that trick..plus it's dabbing work..not a general strip job..like I am thinking for the Black 2 plane I am thinking of working on.
good traders/sellers/buyers
Alloyskull(x2), PanzerArm(x2), Ostketten, Mikeg,tmanthegreat,Coreyeagle48
Alloyskull(x2), PanzerArm(x2), Ostketten, Mikeg,tmanthegreat,Coreyeagle48
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With all this paint removal talk, I figured I should share a tip. I found for removing factory paint with out harming the detail and etc, use those Mr Clean Magic Erasers. It has worked better than anything I have tried to remove factory paint, it just takes some time. Works the best for flat surfaces.
I even attached one to a wheel to use in my drill, but you have to be careful using power, as it will start to smooth detail on softer rubber plastics.
momaw nadon
I even attached one to a wheel to use in my drill, but you have to be careful using power, as it will start to smooth detail on softer rubber plastics.
momaw nadon
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DAK w/ Short Pants Tutorial
I finally got around to putting together a little tutorial on my DAK Short Pants Recipe. Feel free to put your spin on it.
Warning Only adults should try this.
Step one, gather up your fodder.
The feet are from an Indy Fig. and the gloves are BBI.
Step two, using the "Boil & Pop" method, disasemble your fodder figs and toss the extra parts bank in your fodder bank.
Step three, snip the plastic pegs off of your FOV boots.
Step four, using a router bit, hollow out the FOV boot cuff.
Step five, snip the boot cuff off of the FOV boot. You can discard the boot, since we only need the cuff.
Step six, the Ugha Warrior's shins are little long, so clip the bottoms off about 1 1/2 mm.
Step seven, ladies, I've found the cure for those unsightly kankles. Using a grinding bit, trim down the bottom of your Ugha Warrior's shins.
Step eight, slide the boot cuffs over the bottom of the Ugha Warriors shins and drill a hole (slightly smaller than the pegs on the Indy shoes) up into the shin.
Step nine, using the "Boil & Pop" method, assemble the lower torso.
Step ten, the peg hole in the FOV fig, must be widened. Use your router bit to do so. Be sure to make the hole slightly smaller than the Dr. Jones Torso peg.
Step eleven, using the "Boil & Pop" method, assemble the rest of your parts.
Step 12, accessorize and paint!
Warning Only adults should try this.
Step one, gather up your fodder.
The feet are from an Indy Fig. and the gloves are BBI.
Step two, using the "Boil & Pop" method, disasemble your fodder figs and toss the extra parts bank in your fodder bank.
Step three, snip the plastic pegs off of your FOV boots.
Step four, using a router bit, hollow out the FOV boot cuff.
Step five, snip the boot cuff off of the FOV boot. You can discard the boot, since we only need the cuff.
Step six, the Ugha Warrior's shins are little long, so clip the bottoms off about 1 1/2 mm.
Step seven, ladies, I've found the cure for those unsightly kankles. Using a grinding bit, trim down the bottom of your Ugha Warrior's shins.
Step eight, slide the boot cuffs over the bottom of the Ugha Warriors shins and drill a hole (slightly smaller than the pegs on the Indy shoes) up into the shin.
Step nine, using the "Boil & Pop" method, assemble the lower torso.
Step ten, the peg hole in the FOV fig, must be widened. Use your router bit to do so. Be sure to make the hole slightly smaller than the Dr. Jones Torso peg.
Step eleven, using the "Boil & Pop" method, assemble the rest of your parts.
Step 12, accessorize and paint!
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I have a tip for anyone wanting some not so dirty Marines
If anyone like the S2 US Marines by 21st C, but doesn't care for the over wealthered look, I have the solution. You will need a Magic Eraser by Mr Clean. I found that they remove factory paint really well with some elbow grease. Anyway, I'll you need to do is rub off some of the heavy brown wash they gave the figure. Let the light green show though and you have a better looking S2 Marine. I'm thinking of keeping my S2 guys now . Will post pictures soon.
momaw nadon
Picture as promised:
Let me know what you guys think.
momaw nadon
Picture as promised:
Let me know what you guys think.
saw this link posted over at joecustoms.com the other day.
http://www.bigscalemodels.com/links/links.html
nice page with lots of basic tutorials and techniques in one easy place.
http://www.bigscalemodels.com/links/links.html
nice page with lots of basic tutorials and techniques in one easy place.
Good Trader List
-Digger -Razor -Mowmaw -Flayrah -ThreeToughTrucks -jlspec -KWR190 -CW4USARMY -vmf214 -bravo5 -holensock -cranedriver -billgiff -Rowsdower -tparkhere
-Digger -Razor -Mowmaw -Flayrah -ThreeToughTrucks -jlspec -KWR190 -CW4USARMY -vmf214 -bravo5 -holensock -cranedriver -billgiff -Rowsdower -tparkhere
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Custom Fallschirmjager Tutorial
Thanks to Flyboy Fox's FJ Helmet advise, I was able to come up with a respectable Fallschirmjager Recipe.
Step 1
Assemble your fodder figs.
Step 2
Using know methods, disasemble your figures into their key components.
Step 3
Trim Down the Jedi Tunic so it more closely resembles the bottom of a FJ smock. Also cut the pockets from the the standard German Tunic. I use a pair of wire cutters to do this.
Step 4
Using a grinding bit trim the belt form the Jedi Tunic. I also suggest ruffing the plastic up with the grinding bit where you are going to glue the pockets to the Tunic bottom.
Step 5
Glue the pockets to the tunic bottom. I use Superglue, because it bonds super fast, but I'm sure you can use other types adhesives.
Step 6
Cut the plastic spacer from the original German tunic.
Step 7
Assemble legs and tunic bottom as shown.
Step 8
Sand down the buttons on torso and tunic bottom. I use a super fine grinding bit and finish it with a light sanding with a fine grain sandpaper.
Step 9
Cut the pegs from the Jump boots.
Step 10
Using molding trees and a drill bit create dowel holes and dowels to marry the jump boots to the DAK legs. Be care not to drill too deep into the bottom of the DAK legs are you'll scew-up the articulation. Secure the dowels to the bottom of the DAK legs using Superglue. This allows for the boots to pivot maintaining articulation, and a stable joint.
Step 11
Using a grinding bit, trim down your standard German Helmet. Remove most of the brim leaving just a small lip around the helmet base. I have a flat grinding bit that works perfectly for this.
Step 12
Assemble the parts to assure proper proportions. I had to shorten the neck and counter sink the hands, to keep the figure from looking off.
Step 13
Paint and Accessorize
Step 1
Assemble your fodder figs.
Step 2
Using know methods, disasemble your figures into their key components.
Step 3
Trim Down the Jedi Tunic so it more closely resembles the bottom of a FJ smock. Also cut the pockets from the the standard German Tunic. I use a pair of wire cutters to do this.
Step 4
Using a grinding bit trim the belt form the Jedi Tunic. I also suggest ruffing the plastic up with the grinding bit where you are going to glue the pockets to the Tunic bottom.
Step 5
Glue the pockets to the tunic bottom. I use Superglue, because it bonds super fast, but I'm sure you can use other types adhesives.
Step 6
Cut the plastic spacer from the original German tunic.
Step 7
Assemble legs and tunic bottom as shown.
Step 8
Sand down the buttons on torso and tunic bottom. I use a super fine grinding bit and finish it with a light sanding with a fine grain sandpaper.
Step 9
Cut the pegs from the Jump boots.
Step 10
Using molding trees and a drill bit create dowel holes and dowels to marry the jump boots to the DAK legs. Be care not to drill too deep into the bottom of the DAK legs are you'll scew-up the articulation. Secure the dowels to the bottom of the DAK legs using Superglue. This allows for the boots to pivot maintaining articulation, and a stable joint.
Step 11
Using a grinding bit, trim down your standard German Helmet. Remove most of the brim leaving just a small lip around the helmet base. I have a flat grinding bit that works perfectly for this.
Step 12
Assemble the parts to assure proper proportions. I had to shorten the neck and counter sink the hands, to keep the figure from looking off.
Step 13
Paint and Accessorize
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I put together a little tutorial for my SA Panzer Ace. Hope you guys find it useful.
Step 1
Assemble your fodder figs
Step2
Dismember your figures using know methods (boil and Pop etc.)
Step 3
Remove the legs from your static Panzer Ace's lower torso. I use wire cutters for this.
Step 4
Hollow out the lower pelvis/torso area of your static Ace. You want it to be supper thin, so it is flexible. Use a grinding bit with your dremel, as shown. I also recommend splitting the bottom of the tunic, up to the button, for greater flexibility.
Step 5
Time to trim down those fatty hips. I use the same grinding bit to narrow the hip/pelvis area on Mutt's legs. This allows the Ace's tunic to fit over Mutt's pelvis.
Step 6
With a router bit make the hole at the bottom of the Ace's torso big enough to accomidate the plug for Mutt's legs.
Step 7
Using a grinding bit create, shoulder sockets in the Ace's torso.
Step 8
With a small router, bit deepen the Plug holes, in the Ace's torso. Don't worry, if you punch all the way through to the other socket. It'll work just fine.
Step 9
Using small rubber tubeing, create gaskets that fit over the pegs on Mutt's arms. The Tubeing I use, is from a small squirt gun.
Step 10
Using Boil and pop method, assemble the Legs arms and torso, before final step. This way you can see if you need to make any further adjustments.
Step 11
Paint or as I prefer Dye, the legs, black, and accessorize.
Step 1
Assemble your fodder figs
Step2
Dismember your figures using know methods (boil and Pop etc.)
Step 3
Remove the legs from your static Panzer Ace's lower torso. I use wire cutters for this.
Step 4
Hollow out the lower pelvis/torso area of your static Ace. You want it to be supper thin, so it is flexible. Use a grinding bit with your dremel, as shown. I also recommend splitting the bottom of the tunic, up to the button, for greater flexibility.
Step 5
Time to trim down those fatty hips. I use the same grinding bit to narrow the hip/pelvis area on Mutt's legs. This allows the Ace's tunic to fit over Mutt's pelvis.
Step 6
With a router bit make the hole at the bottom of the Ace's torso big enough to accomidate the plug for Mutt's legs.
Step 7
Using a grinding bit create, shoulder sockets in the Ace's torso.
Step 8
With a small router, bit deepen the Plug holes, in the Ace's torso. Don't worry, if you punch all the way through to the other socket. It'll work just fine.
Step 9
Using small rubber tubeing, create gaskets that fit over the pegs on Mutt's arms. The Tubeing I use, is from a small squirt gun.
Step 10
Using Boil and pop method, assemble the Legs arms and torso, before final step. This way you can see if you need to make any further adjustments.
Step 11
Paint or as I prefer Dye, the legs, black, and accessorize.
Need some help w/21st Century 1/18 P51 "Old Crow"...
I need to replace entire propeller (hub & all) - My new in box plane looks like a factory repair attempt at a broken blade - smeared glue, paint, etc.
I would like to swap the prop w/my display "Old Crow", since it is hanging from the ceiling & the defect won't be visable. I am not much of a modeler & don't want to ruin either plane - I would really appreciate some guidance on this if any one is willing...
Thanks
I need to replace entire propeller (hub & all) - My new in box plane looks like a factory repair attempt at a broken blade - smeared glue, paint, etc.
I would like to swap the prop w/my display "Old Crow", since it is hanging from the ceiling & the defect won't be visable. I am not much of a modeler & don't want to ruin either plane - I would really appreciate some guidance on this if any one is willing...
Thanks
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Stuka rear canopy
I just got my 2001 stuka (with flying pig) from ebay a few months ago. The rear canopy was off without box ever being opened. The rubber bands from original packing widened the canopy so it wouldn't stay attached, and slide back and fourth. I used a small c clamp to hold the canopy tighter and used a heat gun to heat it up. ( i was careful to heat it very slowly so the clear plastic didnt crack) . I put the canopy back on after cooling. Stays attached.Slides back and fourth. I'm sure someone else has had this issue
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Tips for PH's sdkfz 222 Assembly
I had a few little hick-ups durring assembly. I don't really really make model kits, so these may be no brainers, for some of you more experienced model guys. Hopefully, someone can learn from my mistakes.
1. Make sure before you glue the 2 main pieces of the hull together. shave down the support ribs just enogh for the turret seats to clear. This will be nearly impossible to do once the hull is glued together. If you don't do this your seats will catch on the ribbing an possibly snap-off.
2. I thought the turret and gun assembly, could not be removed once the hull was glued to gether. I glued the two pieces of the hull to gether, with the turret and gun assembly already plugged in. When I did this I put too much preasure on the turret, and accedently snapped off my MG. Only after that I figured out I could plug the turret assemble into the the hull, by angleling in the seatsfirst.
3. I followed the tamaiya instructions for order of assembly. In hindsight, I should have assembled the main hull first before adding the extra griblies. Right now I have the fenders and tool boxes, in the way, while I try to bondo the seem that runs along the main hull.
4. The muffler pipes are a super tight fit. I suggest, smoothing them with sand paper, before doing, the dry fit. My first muffler assembly, siezed up on me, as I was tring to turn it into possition. I could not get it to budge, so I left the tail-pipe as it was stuck rather than risking it snapping-off.
Hope that is helpful
1. Make sure before you glue the 2 main pieces of the hull together. shave down the support ribs just enogh for the turret seats to clear. This will be nearly impossible to do once the hull is glued together. If you don't do this your seats will catch on the ribbing an possibly snap-off.
2. I thought the turret and gun assembly, could not be removed once the hull was glued to gether. I glued the two pieces of the hull to gether, with the turret and gun assembly already plugged in. When I did this I put too much preasure on the turret, and accedently snapped off my MG. Only after that I figured out I could plug the turret assemble into the the hull, by angleling in the seatsfirst.
3. I followed the tamaiya instructions for order of assembly. In hindsight, I should have assembled the main hull first before adding the extra griblies. Right now I have the fenders and tool boxes, in the way, while I try to bondo the seem that runs along the main hull.
4. The muffler pipes are a super tight fit. I suggest, smoothing them with sand paper, before doing, the dry fit. My first muffler assembly, siezed up on me, as I was tring to turn it into possition. I could not get it to budge, so I left the tail-pipe as it was stuck rather than risking it snapping-off.
Hope that is helpful
Re: Tricks, Tips, Hints, Cheats, Tools, Whatever!!!!
Hello, I have a questions about supplies/stowage on vehicles.
I want to customize my sherman with some stowage, (possibly from build-a-rama). Is there an easy way to attach it to the vehicle not permanently so I can take it off if I want? And I don't want it to ruin the paint on the vehicle either
I want to customize my sherman with some stowage, (possibly from build-a-rama). Is there an easy way to attach it to the vehicle not permanently so I can take it off if I want? And I don't want it to ruin the paint on the vehicle either
it be like dat
Re: zimmermit
Thanks for the insight. The more I think about it, spackle could work too right?pickelhaube wrote:Here is the easiest was to apply zimmermit . Forget about the solder irons and the quick epoxy. Use tile mastic !! Thats right. You need to use multi purpose mastic. The paint on the model is arylic. Mastic is an arylic. The mastic can go on with a small notch trowl ,saw tooth , screw driver what have you. It will scim over in about 1/2 hour. It is water clean up. It is goof proof. If you do not like what you have done just wipe it off and start over. Let it dry over night and you are good to go. 2 days drying time will be better. YOU NEED TO USE ACRYLIC PAINT TO PAINT OVER IT. NO OILS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
it be like dat
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Re: zimmermit
AJWW2 wrote:Thanks for the insight. The more I think about it, spackle could work too right?pickelhaube wrote:Here is the easiest was to apply zimmermit . Forget about the solder irons and the quick epoxy. Use tile mastic !! Thats right. You need to use multi purpose mastic. The paint on the model is arylic. Mastic is an arylic. The mastic can go on with a small notch trowl ,saw tooth , screw driver what have you. It will scim over in about 1/2 hour. It is water clean up. It is goof proof. If you do not like what you have done just wipe it off and start over. Let it dry over night and you are good to go. 2 days drying time will be better. YOU NEED TO USE ACRYLIC PAINT TO PAINT OVER IT. NO OILS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It has been a while since I have checked out this post.
I guess spackel would work but it is kind of soft and I do not think it will hold the high point in the ridges as the mastic will.
Re: Tricks, Tips, Hints, Cheats, Tools, Whatever!!!!
i keep a bottle of clear nail polish on hand for repairs such as tightening joints or securiring pieces without the permanent effect of super glue.
great for ball sockets, hinges...i use it to keep loose helmets on or other accessories in place.
real life saver
great for ball sockets, hinges...i use it to keep loose helmets on or other accessories in place.
real life saver
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Re: Tricks, Tips, Hints, Cheats, Tools, Whatever!!!!
Does anyone know what happened to Fritzkrieg? Is he still around?? He made great work!