Repainting 21st Century 1:32 planes

[Molon Lave]

I am planning on repainting several 21st Cent 1:32 Planes. Has anyone done this? Any tips on taking apart planes (prop, windscreens), sanding, paint prep, etc. I am an experienced scale modler who took a 25 year break. Any pointers, tips and help will be much appreciated.

I have a bunch of 51's and 47's I want to custom paint.

Thanks for your help.

[PanzerArm]

Lots of guys here have done that!

Right off hand I can say that I know Harry, aka Hworth18, is quite adept at repainting 1/32 scale aircraft.

-Kevin

[hworth18]

Welcome Molon Lave!
I repaint 21st Century planes all the time and have done about 15 so far.
I posted a little tutorial a while back and I will post it here in parts so you can see what I do when I repaint 1/32 aircraft.

[hworth18]

I have had many people ask me what goes into repainting a plane. This procedure is pretty much the same for me no matter what type of plane it is. I usually try to use planes that are defective or blemished in some way since some of the planes I use could be considered rare or Oop.
This example started out as an Ultimate Soldier Fw 190-F8 (Ultra rare) "Black 2", the only reason I used this plane was because it had way too many defects from the factory to be considered a collectible item, so it became a candidate for a repaint. (I have already started this project, but the first part is just disassembly anyways, so not a whole lot to photograph).
This plane will be another Maximowitz "Black 8" and should look something like this when completed:
(Not the completed model)


First off, I disassemble the plane as much as possible. I remove the prop, small bits (antennas/pitot tubes etc.) and what cannot be removed gets masked off. I use blue painters tape (low tack) and I use a product called Parafilm "M" to mask off the canopy/windscreen. I usually remove as many of the Tampo graphics as possible using Acetone, those that cannot be removed (for some weird reason) are usually just primered over. I typically use Tamiya "Fine" white primer or Tamiya Gray depending what I have on hand at the time and usually shoot a couple of coats (allow an hour between coats) to make sure the existing paint/markings are covered. Once the plane is primered, I usually shoot the primary color basecoat with Tamiya Acrylics. I paint inside my house, so using acrylic paints is safe and if an error is made, it isn't a huge issue to fix or remove the paint.

Here are some shots of the plane in this state, I jumped ahead and have already painted the cowl because it is usually the hardest part to paint on this plane. Since this aircraft was originally a F8, it only came with bombs, so I had to modify the ETC Fuselage rack to accomodate the drop tank and fill in the holes for the ETC50 wing racks. I have also added the fuselage armor plate by using thin mylar sheet. This is the first time I have used mylar so it is a side experiment for me (I hope it works).




Part Two will cover further details and painting the camo scheme.
Thanks for looking..

[hworth18]

Here is my second installment on custom painting a Fw 190-A8. The first part covered disassembly and primering the plane in preparation to be painted. For this part, I have decided to do something a little different and add weathering to the plane. This is something I usually only do on the higher-end models that I build but I thought it might be of interest to those that like their planes somewhat weathered. My weathering technique is not too harsh, but it adds a slightly worn look to my models.
The first step is to take the primered model and paint the major panel lines and compartment openings. I typically use Tamiya flat black, but I have been known to use any dark color that happens to be in my airbrush (typically RLM66) so I waste as little paint as possible:




Next, I load a very thin mix of "lightened" RLM76 (Lightblue) and paint each individual panel until the surface is completely painted, I do not paint surfaces (like upper wing surfaces) that will be covered with another color. I also painted the exhaust panels and trimmed them out to approximately where the decal will be placed in the future. I will detail those areas during the final completion process:





This pretty much completes part two, and just a note for those wondering, I have approximately 6 hours in this project so far. Painting the panels took a good 2-1/2 hrs to complete.

[hworth18]

Here is the third installment of repainting the Fw-190 and this section will cover painting the camouflage and decaling the plane.
The basecoat has been added and now it is time to add the primary camouflage scheme. This is a typical A8 scheme of lower surfaces being RLM-76 and the Upper surfaces consisting of RLM 74 and 75. First off, I will lay on a coat of the lighter RLM 75 Gray-violet, and apply it in similar fashion as I applied the underside color, one panel at a time. The darker RLM 74 will not be applied in this way because the darker color pretty much covers any pre-shaded panels and it is a waste of time.
Here are a few pics of the painted upper surface, with first just the RLM75, and then both colors and the filled in area for the fuselage balkenruze (note, I used Tamiya Dark Green mix substituted for RLM-74):





After I let this set overnight, it was time to give the model a nice glossy coat of Future so that the decals will adhere without silvering. I let the Future cure for about 2 hours then started applying the decals. The decalling can take a while depending on how much stenciling is involved, usually about 2 hours or so. I went ahead and added the inner wing cannons which I had previously removed and fabricated the outer cannons using brass tubing. I also temporarily mounted the ETC fuel tank rack and drop tank to make sure everything lines up and fits properly.





As you can see the plane is starting to come together and Part IV will cover adding the final clear coats and detailing of the plane, including cleaning up the paint and adding the mottling on the fuselage.

[hworth18]

After letting the plane sit for 24 hrs or so, I added the final mottling using a thin coat of paint with the airbrush on low pressure. Detailing entails just going around the plane and doing touch-ups where needed. During the process, things happen (fingerprintes/scratches, etc.) and those need to be removed before adding the final coat of Future to seal everything in.
I added one pic tonight after I shot the mottling and finished detailing. I have added the final coat of Future and tomorrow I will shoot the final lacquer flatcoat.

[hworth18]

I typically let the plane sit another 24 hrs to let the Future cure and then the plane is ready for the final dullcoat. For this, I use Testors Flat Lacquer and only shoot one coat over the entire plane. I will let this set for a few hours and then the plane can be handled.

Here are the pics of the finished plane after shooting the final dullcoat and adding all the little bits.

I hope you enjoyed the presentation..

[Dauntless]

Very nice work Harry!
That one should have been produced by 21st.

Question: I noticed you sprayed what looks like green (though it may be black) first on the fuselage where the insignia cross goes. Is this so you can use just the white part of the cross to complete the insignia? Also you mention stencils. Are the white crosses stencils or decals?
I would assume a stencil where you can use them if possible would be preferable in some cases to get that painted on look right?

Thanks

[Molon Lave]

PanzerArm, appreciate the lead on Harry.

Thanks for the "welcome" Harry. You did a beautiful job on the FW190. This is exactly what I want to do with my 21st Cent models.

I do have some questions on:

REMOVING THE PROP: How do you do it? Does this eliminate "spinning feature" when repositioned? What if you FUBAR prop removal?

WEATHERING: I like the spraying the panel lines then apply thin coats of paint one panel at a time. My weathering skillsets were spraying a "wash" over finished plane.

FUTURE: Really? Cool! Never used it in my modeling days. Applying decals with some Micro Set did the trick then applied the finish. I have some questions on Future application.

REMOVING TAMPO GRAPHICS: Ok, you need to dumb this down for me. Tampo Graphics are the painted insignias, stencil, nose art...yes? When I think applying Acetone on plastic I visualize plastic melting, what is proper technique?

Are there any publications I can acquire to bring me up to speed on contemporary scale modeling techniques?

My scale modeling days were years ago before I discovered Girls & Cars. It is obvious I am many zip codes from current procedures.

Back in the day my resources were:

Badger airbrush with Co2 tank with regulator
Lots of little tools
Green putty
Vacuform toy for those scratch built canopies and conversions, etc.
Floquil paints with color mix guides
Squadron Publications for reference
Subscription to Scale Modeler magazine
MicroScale decals ... a binder full of them
Large box of scrap parts
Used to mail order my kits from Squadron Shop Hazel Park, MI. Then made many trips to SS in DC (Georgia Ave)
Local hobby shop allowed me to display my works
Did my first "commissioned" model at age 15 for $20
I was only kid in neighborhood allowed to buy glue, etc without note from parents

Sorry for the bio, truly felt I wanted to give you a little background.

Harry, thanks again for these outstanding tips. I will ask more questions. Just tell me when I become annoying.

[hworth18]

Very nice work Harry!
That one should have been produced by 21st.

Question: I noticed you sprayed what looks like green (though it may be black) first on the fuselage where the insignia cross goes. Is this so you can use just the white part of the cross to complete the insignia? Also you mention stencils. Are the white crosses stencils or decals?
I would assume a stencil where you can use them if possible would be preferable in some cases to get that painted on look right?

Thanks

Dauntless,
The RLM74 I painted under the fuselage balkenkruse is the base color of the cross, late in the war it was very common for the black to be either painted out or filled in. In this set of decals, the cross did not have a background so it had to be filled in. All of the markings on the plane are decals. What I meant by "stencils" are the information plaques like "No step" etc..

[snake]

Welcome to the forum, Molon Lave.

The 21 Century 1/32 scale models make excellent candidates for repaints, as I am sure you have discovered. It sounds as though your modelling skills is about the same as mine. 25 years old, and dusty. But it should come back to you pretty quickly. Practice does make perfect.

Harry does great work, and he has an impressive resume. Although he doesn't like to flaunt his talents, he is one of the best.

As an ex modeler, I am sure you can see the potential with these 21C models, Molon Lave. And you could get them for as little as $20 just a couple of years ago.

[hworth18]

PanzerArm, appreciate the lead on Harry.

Thanks for the "welcome" Harry. You did a beautiful job on the FW190. This is exactly what I want to do with my 21st Cent models.

I do have some questions on:

REMOVING THE PROP: How do you do it? Does this eliminate "spinning feature" when repositioned? What if you FUBAR prop removal?

WEATHERING: I like the spraying the panel lines then apply thin coats of paint one panel at a time. My weathering skillsets were spraying a "wash" over finished plane.

FUTURE: Really? Cool! Never used it in my modeling days. Applying decals with some Micro Set did the trick then applied the finish. I have some questions on Future application.

REMOVING TAMPO GRAPHICS: Ok, you need to dumb this down for me. Tampo Graphics are the painted insignias, stencil, nose art...yes? When I think applying Acetone on plastic I visualize plastic melting, what is proper technique?

Are there any publications I can acquire to bring me up to speed on contemporary scale modeling techniques?

My scale modeling days were years ago before I discovered Girls & Cars. It is obvious I am many zip codes from current procedures.

Back in the day my resources were:

Badger airbrush with Co2 tank with regulator
Lots of little tools
Green putty
Vacuform toy for those scratch built canopies and conversions, etc.
Floquil paints with color mix guides
Squadron Publications for reference
Subscription to Scale Modeler magazine
MicroScale decals ... a binder full of them
Large box of scrap parts
Used to mail order my kits from Squadron Shop Hazel Park, MI. Then made many trips to SS in DC (Georgia Ave)
Local hobby shop allowed me to display my works
Did my first "commissioned" model at age 15 for $20
I was only kid in neighborhood allowed to buy glue, etc without note from parents

Sorry for the bio, truly felt I wanted to give you a little background.

Harry, thanks again for these outstanding tips. I will ask more questions. Just tell me when I become annoying.

Ok, I will try and answer as many questions as I can...

Removing the prop: All 21st planes are different, but most are similar in construction. The prop hubs on the fw 190 and bf 109G have a retaining "hub" on the inside of the cowl and you can either lossen the front fuselage screw and pull, or do the "pull out as you push down" method to pop the hub out. Some planes have a retaining screw and that has to be removed. I suggest you disassemble the plane as much as possible and then try to figure out what the best way is for getting the prop off.

Weathering: There are many different ways and the one I demonstrated is just one of those options. To be honest, many times I remove the old tampo markings, just primer over that and start shooting paint. You can do a wash after you finish that way.

Future: Yes Future Floor Wax.. I think it is called Pledge with Future now, but it is a wonderful acrylic base that is self leveling and dries clear as can be. It provides a gloss base to keep the decals from silvering and also seals in the paint. I typically only use acrylics but it works on enamels as well. I shoot a few coats as a base for the decals, apply the decals (I use micro-sol) then after the decals have settled, I will shoot a few more coats of Future over the entire model to seal everything in. Once the Future cures, you can then spray the final flat clearcoat over that.

Removing Tampo Graphics: I use fingernail polish remover with acetone. I have never tried pure acetone, but I have used paint thinner (sparingly). Typically, if the marking won't come off, I just primer over it. Most markings will come off, but I have found some here and there that won't. A good coat of Tamiya fine primer usually covers everything well.

There are some magazines like Fine Scale Modeler that really helped me when I started painting and I also recommend going to websites like Aeroscale and Hyperscale. The ARC (Aircraft Resource Center) forum is good too.
It sounds like you have a pretty good background in modeling so I don't think you will have too many problems getting back into the swing of things.

Hope this helps..
Harry

[Molon Lave]

Thank you all for your responses. A big "atta boy" to you Harry, your time and effort on my behalf is most appreciated.

Hopefully I can return the favor to all of you.

Plan to begin repainting some of my 21st Century x32's soon. Will most likely start with some 51's and give it a "Red Tail" look (51C and 51D). Then some 47's. Will focus on unique nose art as much as possible for all my repaints and builds.

These will get my skill sets in tune with current technologies. Once they are fine tuned. I will start building kits and going off the wall with details and practice, scratchbuild and practice, weathering and practice, dioramas and practice....etc.

As I complete my projects I will post. I envision creating a website of my work, failures and triumphs.

Before I start the 21st Cen x32's I will finish 4 projects that have a very personal tie with my Dad. 2 of these are building the Monogram's Phantom Mustang and the Gulfhawk II ... these kits were the first models I built with my Dad a long time ago. I got 4 Phantom Mustang kits, plan to do one build straight out of box with minor painting. Gotta love those battleship rivets. Then have some fun with the others. The Gulfhawk II may turn into a F3 Yellow Wing build.

The other 2 efforts will be cleaning & restoring 2 builds that spent 20 years in my Dad's smoke filled radio shack. Yes, Pop was a Hammy.

Thanks again and hope to collaborate with all of you soon.

[snake]

Looking forward to your updates.

[Molon Lave]

Appreciate the camaraderie, Snake . For sure, I too am looking forward to the updates.

I see great possibilities with the 21st Century rebuilds. I have over 30 aircraft and about 15 tanks/guns. Most I purchased beginning about 3-4 years ago. Many I picked up for under $15 at WalMart. I envisioned repainting/dioramas as early as 2007, so I started stocking up.

I'm a traveling salesman and would hit the WalMarts, Targets, Toys R Us and local Hobby Shops in the various cities/towns I would travel to.

Have purchased a few on eBay and got some good deals, especially on the unboxed ones. Being MIB is moot as I am going to rebuild them anyway. I got 7 unboxed planes for less than $50.

[snake]

That is one of the best parts of 21C 1/32 models. They are pretty good, pre built, and could be had for very little money. My modeling skills are very dusty by now, and I don't have any of the equipment anymore. And you would have a hard time even buying a kit for the price you could/ still can get these for.

If your modeling skills are still there, these do make excellent candidates for repaints.

The same applies to their 1/18 models as well, and several members here, particularly TKO, do some awesome work in 1/18.

[mikeyt]

a simple re paint i just sanded off the orginal markings removed wing masked off sprayed colors from cans used after market decals sealed with overall dull coat click pic to open webshots for more

[snake]

I do like that repaint, mikeyt.

[nooker21]

I've primed my 1/32 P-40 and wanted to do the Pearl Harbor scheme like its 1/18 cousin (since it's a simple paint scheme to experiment), but I cannot for the life of me find a 1/32 decal sheet (checked both online and the local hobby shops). Anyone have a source of either decals or a way to produce masks for it? I'm just getting back into the modeling part of the hobby myself and want to practice my skills. It's such a simple scheme, I probably could rely on masks for most of it if only I knew how to create them...

[Molon Lave]

Mikeyt - nice job on the Passion Wagon P51.

How did you remove the prop? Internally (on the 21st Cen 51 with wings removed) I can see a phlps head screw assumption this holds the prop in place. Any pointers would be helpful.

Also enjoyed viewing your gallery. Noticed at yellow Henry J in background on pic #21.

[Molon Lave]

am stoked about the Tamiya 1/32 51D release.

[Molon Lave]

Nooker21

Check out this link for your P40 Pearl Harbor effort. This will give you some guidelines for decals.

http://www.p40warhawk.com/Models/Builds ... /P-40B.htm

I recommend you secure SuperScale 1/32 P40E decals #MS320247. You can get the national insignia for this plane. You will have to get creative on the tail and fuselage numbers. There might be a stock decal sheet with white stencil numbers out there.

Good luck.

Rick

[mikeyt]

Mikeyt - nice job on the Passion Wagon P51.

How did you remove the prop? Internally (on the 21st Cen 51 with wings removed) I can see a phlps head screw assumption this holds the prop in place. Any pointers would be helpful.

Also enjoyed viewing your gallery. Noticed at yellow Henry J in background on pic #21.

I did not remove the prop i used a lot of masking tape found that screw after the this was complete i have used it to tighten up some lose props on other P 51's it looks like you could that the prop off useing this screw Yes i will admit i have a collection of 1/18 cars post a picture of ypur repaints

[nooker21]

Molon Lave, thanks for the link. i've seen that build before and the underside looks a little off (the US Army font looks a little wide), but it will help when it comes time for painting. Now, if only I could also figure out how to fabricate the proper pitot tube to replace the silly tube they gave us on that 1/32 model...