Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project (Finished)
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Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project (Finished)
Board member Aracula's Stug IV was purchased by board member Canaberra Paul and sent to me in order to finish any missing details and then paint and detail. This is an overview of the process.
The Stug was well made! however there were visible build lines between parts. These could have been removed by further putty and sanding on my part but I decided to go the Zimmerit path instead.
Overall the build is well done and built solid!
The drivers hatch was never made, the drivers telescoping view finders were to large and of the wrong shape and so they will be deleted. The driver’s station was further protected by a concrete slab that was also not included.
The gun mantle was to small in the rear and needed to be built up more and attached to a larger back plate.
The extra tread that came with the tank was inaccurate and does not match the correct tracks on the tank so it was removed and replaced with two resin copies of the correct tracks.
The RC antenna will have to be clipped and the antenna box moved to the back of the superstructure.
The work will start on the concrete slab for the driver.
There are many ways to do this, this may be stranger and perhaps more difficult than most but in my opinion achieves the best look. When looking at photographs of Stugs IV’s in the field the concrete have a distinct pitted rough look that is difficult to replicate by simply scaring plastic and so here is my solution.
• A common pumas stone that can be purchased in most stores,
• A tube of Bondo spot putty (don’t bother with Squadron Putty)
• Dremel cutting tool
• Sanding sponge and water
First cut yourself a block out of the stone, it is brittle and cuts easy but produces a lot of dust so wear a mask.
Then wet sand it till it is more or less smooth, be careful it is brittle and breaks easily, if you look close you can see that mine already broke in two and was glued back together which is ok, it won’t be seen.
Keep wet sanding and checking for fitment until it is just right.
Then rub on the putty, not to thick, wait for it to dry and wet sand the putty down but don’t go into the stone.
Then glue it on and putty again, once dry, wet sand again.
Now we are ready to do the gun. Use only Aves Apoxie Sculpt. It is better than anything else in my opinion. Form it up to desired size and shape and after it has hardened wet sand.
After sanding it should look something like this. Then glue on your freshly cut back plate.
Then primer and test for fitment, I sanded the primer also so you can see the uneven spot appear in white. After the gun is done start checking fitment for the side armor but do not attach the gun.
I’m using the bracing that came with the 21st Century Panzer IV. The front brace on each side should be removed and once that is done it will look like this.
Back to the drivers hatch where I etched in the hatch door and then inserted a handle and fake hinge. You can see I have started the Zimmerit already in some areas.
Doing the Zimmerit is not easy but is simple enough if you have the right tools. Again use Aves Apoxie Sculpt. Do not bother with Milliput, its not as good and its often clumpy. I use a series of stamp made by Imperial for 1/16 armor but works fine on 1/18, it’s the best tool for the job. E-mail the company and they will sell you a set (make sure your email is in German).
Zimmerit should be done in sections, don’t rush it. Remember doing it “perfect” is not accurate or necessary. It was put on by hand using a trawl and for that reason there are some mistakes not an absolute perfect pattern, also there are many pattern versions on each vehicle, so research before you start. Here is a shot of the completed front.
Notice the holes and chips on the finders, “high traffic” areas should look like this. Notice that I covered the bolts on the vertical plate opposite the drivers hatch and that I stamped holes for the transmission cover plate. I will now go back and drill small holes and insert small nails to resemble the raised bolts. There are two major problems that one may face while doing Zimmerit; putting it on to thick and having it pull away while stamping. The first is the harder problem, smooth it on as thin as possible, when stamping you may get thick seems between rows, this can be either fixed by further thinning and restarting or sanding the finished product down. I usually do a combination of the two, I get it as this as I can then stamp and when hard lightly sand. The second problem happens when you pull up the stamp and a chunk of apoxie comes away with the stamp. The easy way to fix this is by keeping the surface of the apoxie damp, a damp cloth or baby wipe is perfect for this. After the stamping is finished take your hobby knife and trim off excess apoxie and let dry, then wet sand.
Much more to come….
The Stug was well made! however there were visible build lines between parts. These could have been removed by further putty and sanding on my part but I decided to go the Zimmerit path instead.
Overall the build is well done and built solid!
The drivers hatch was never made, the drivers telescoping view finders were to large and of the wrong shape and so they will be deleted. The driver’s station was further protected by a concrete slab that was also not included.
The gun mantle was to small in the rear and needed to be built up more and attached to a larger back plate.
The extra tread that came with the tank was inaccurate and does not match the correct tracks on the tank so it was removed and replaced with two resin copies of the correct tracks.
The RC antenna will have to be clipped and the antenna box moved to the back of the superstructure.
The work will start on the concrete slab for the driver.
There are many ways to do this, this may be stranger and perhaps more difficult than most but in my opinion achieves the best look. When looking at photographs of Stugs IV’s in the field the concrete have a distinct pitted rough look that is difficult to replicate by simply scaring plastic and so here is my solution.
• A common pumas stone that can be purchased in most stores,
• A tube of Bondo spot putty (don’t bother with Squadron Putty)
• Dremel cutting tool
• Sanding sponge and water
First cut yourself a block out of the stone, it is brittle and cuts easy but produces a lot of dust so wear a mask.
Then wet sand it till it is more or less smooth, be careful it is brittle and breaks easily, if you look close you can see that mine already broke in two and was glued back together which is ok, it won’t be seen.
Keep wet sanding and checking for fitment until it is just right.
Then rub on the putty, not to thick, wait for it to dry and wet sand the putty down but don’t go into the stone.
Then glue it on and putty again, once dry, wet sand again.
Now we are ready to do the gun. Use only Aves Apoxie Sculpt. It is better than anything else in my opinion. Form it up to desired size and shape and after it has hardened wet sand.
After sanding it should look something like this. Then glue on your freshly cut back plate.
Then primer and test for fitment, I sanded the primer also so you can see the uneven spot appear in white. After the gun is done start checking fitment for the side armor but do not attach the gun.
I’m using the bracing that came with the 21st Century Panzer IV. The front brace on each side should be removed and once that is done it will look like this.
Back to the drivers hatch where I etched in the hatch door and then inserted a handle and fake hinge. You can see I have started the Zimmerit already in some areas.
Doing the Zimmerit is not easy but is simple enough if you have the right tools. Again use Aves Apoxie Sculpt. Do not bother with Milliput, its not as good and its often clumpy. I use a series of stamp made by Imperial for 1/16 armor but works fine on 1/18, it’s the best tool for the job. E-mail the company and they will sell you a set (make sure your email is in German).
Zimmerit should be done in sections, don’t rush it. Remember doing it “perfect” is not accurate or necessary. It was put on by hand using a trawl and for that reason there are some mistakes not an absolute perfect pattern, also there are many pattern versions on each vehicle, so research before you start. Here is a shot of the completed front.
Notice the holes and chips on the finders, “high traffic” areas should look like this. Notice that I covered the bolts on the vertical plate opposite the drivers hatch and that I stamped holes for the transmission cover plate. I will now go back and drill small holes and insert small nails to resemble the raised bolts. There are two major problems that one may face while doing Zimmerit; putting it on to thick and having it pull away while stamping. The first is the harder problem, smooth it on as thin as possible, when stamping you may get thick seems between rows, this can be either fixed by further thinning and restarting or sanding the finished product down. I usually do a combination of the two, I get it as this as I can then stamp and when hard lightly sand. The second problem happens when you pull up the stamp and a chunk of apoxie comes away with the stamp. The easy way to fix this is by keeping the surface of the apoxie damp, a damp cloth or baby wipe is perfect for this. After the stamping is finished take your hobby knife and trim off excess apoxie and let dry, then wet sand.
Much more to come….
Last edited by Jnewboy on Sun Feb 02, 2014 7:34 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project
WOW looks Great !!!!
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Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project
Looks pretty good.
The zimm looks a bit heavy to me though.
The zimm looks a bit heavy to me though.
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Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project
Looks awesome... Curious to see this finished.
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Now Hasbro, make us some Head Sculpt & Endor Uniform variations! The new Rebel Fleet Trooper gets the JJ Seal of Approval Though!
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Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project
I think its fantastic Jon. I simply love your work Mate. I cant wait to see more progress shots!!
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Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project
Wow! Aracula has done a Great job on that Stug IV and Jon your detailing is going to
make one bad ass looking Stug.
I'll keep watching, you both have inspired me to go back and finish mine.
make one bad ass looking Stug.
I'll keep watching, you both have inspired me to go back and finish mine.
Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project
I'm pretty excited about the idea of a 18 scale stug, and think the kit looks pretty nice straight from the box! Something like zim can't be judged until the final finish and paint, but from the looks of the kit without it, I doubt I would bother.
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Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project (update
Had a few hours during Turkey Day break to get some more work done.
Vision ports for the driver will be made from resin copies of the vision ports off a 1/18 Panther. Here is the rubber casting I use for small parts and the Panther vision port.
Here are the resin copies of the vision ports and the Bosch head lamp also off the Panther.
Here they are trimmed down and attached along with the light.
Roof detail for telescope, black dots mark spaces for bolts and telescope.
Side view of Zimmerit, notice the blank spots where braces will go.
Rear view of Zimmerit. Notice handle the was made and relocated antenna.
Rear view, notice hinges and door lines are left clean aswell as the oil exchange port, this takes etching out the apoxie before and after stamping.
Time for the "bolts".
For the front plate I squeezed nail tops into squares.
Notice they are above the Zimmerit.
Small pins for the top detail, all the holes for all the bolts should be drilled by hand, not Dremel.
Notice these are down in and level with the Zimmerit.
Braces on.
Thats is it for now, next we start painting!
Vision ports for the driver will be made from resin copies of the vision ports off a 1/18 Panther. Here is the rubber casting I use for small parts and the Panther vision port.
Here are the resin copies of the vision ports and the Bosch head lamp also off the Panther.
Here they are trimmed down and attached along with the light.
Roof detail for telescope, black dots mark spaces for bolts and telescope.
Side view of Zimmerit, notice the blank spots where braces will go.
Rear view of Zimmerit. Notice handle the was made and relocated antenna.
Rear view, notice hinges and door lines are left clean aswell as the oil exchange port, this takes etching out the apoxie before and after stamping.
Time for the "bolts".
For the front plate I squeezed nail tops into squares.
Notice they are above the Zimmerit.
Small pins for the top detail, all the holes for all the bolts should be drilled by hand, not Dremel.
Notice these are down in and level with the Zimmerit.
Braces on.
Thats is it for now, next we start painting!
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Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project (update
Wow Jon!!! Its great stuff!!!!
I will love to see it painted. Thanks so much Mate for taking everyone through this build, its been an eye opener for me into how much work and skill is required to do models at this level.
I will love to see it painted. Thanks so much Mate for taking everyone through this build, its been an eye opener for me into how much work and skill is required to do models at this level.
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Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project (Finish
Ral 7028, no modulation.
Camo added, Ral 8012 & 6011
Ambush spots added
Change out resin copy for "real" MG42
Detail paint accessories and wheels
Brown home made acrylic filter, acts more like a wash, great for fadding and weathering zimmerit. After totally dry, wipe off with low nap wet cloth or babywipe.
Add dark wash to doors and as needed but not the zimmerit coating.
Earth effects + light dust pigment to make concrete wash
wipe off quickly before totally drying, this will show realistic damage to the slab
Black oil paint under gun and around gun housing to create shadow
Tracks on, now time for chipping, remember no chipping on zimmerit, only steel.
dip sponge in chipping paint and wipe off on paper towel then lightly pat, more in areas that are used more like the commanders copula and wheels.
Extra track on
Tools on
Dust time
side armor on and first layer of dust on
Decal time, micro sol under and over and blot dry
notice the dust build up between plates, remove with thin wet brush
Engine deck time
Steel pigment on finger on tracks give real look where tracks hit ground, after spray whole model with flat enamel. Then add foilage.
Final product
Lots more here:http://s1237.photobucket.com/user/Jnewb ... t=3&page=1
Thanks!
Camo added, Ral 8012 & 6011
Ambush spots added
Change out resin copy for "real" MG42
Detail paint accessories and wheels
Brown home made acrylic filter, acts more like a wash, great for fadding and weathering zimmerit. After totally dry, wipe off with low nap wet cloth or babywipe.
Add dark wash to doors and as needed but not the zimmerit coating.
Earth effects + light dust pigment to make concrete wash
wipe off quickly before totally drying, this will show realistic damage to the slab
Black oil paint under gun and around gun housing to create shadow
Tracks on, now time for chipping, remember no chipping on zimmerit, only steel.
dip sponge in chipping paint and wipe off on paper towel then lightly pat, more in areas that are used more like the commanders copula and wheels.
Extra track on
Tools on
Dust time
side armor on and first layer of dust on
Decal time, micro sol under and over and blot dry
notice the dust build up between plates, remove with thin wet brush
Engine deck time
Steel pigment on finger on tracks give real look where tracks hit ground, after spray whole model with flat enamel. Then add foilage.
Final product
Lots more here:http://s1237.photobucket.com/user/Jnewb ... t=3&page=1
Thanks!
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Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project (update
That is the best piece you have ever done Jon!!! Thanks for all the work in showing us how you did it all Mate!!!
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Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project (Finish
Thanks Paul! Glad you like it! Ak Interactive products and tutorials have really helped my modeling without a doubt! I cant do this for every one I make as it is time consuming but it was fun to show all the work that goes into one. I sometimes forget how much goes in as Im always just thinking about what is next and what I missed. Its funny and sad at the same time how much detail is hidden by other detail like the foliage covering the tools.
Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project (Finish
Great job on the Stug Jon. At first i did not know it was going to look this good,but with all the correct details for the era it is very accurate model now.
I haven't seen a Stug IV since the woofer custom hey days.
Now to shipp a panzer IV i always use poly-fil(stuffing similar to what is used to fill teddy bears or pillows) It is the safest way to ship scale models.
I get that stuffing in Walmart arts and craft section.
It is always nice to see your step by building and weathering process.I always enjoy it and learn from it.
I haven't seen a Stug IV since the woofer custom hey days.
Now to shipp a panzer IV i always use poly-fil(stuffing similar to what is used to fill teddy bears or pillows) It is the safest way to ship scale models.
I get that stuffing in Walmart arts and craft section.
It is always nice to see your step by building and weathering process.I always enjoy it and learn from it.
Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project (Finish
Very, very nice, I can build pretty good but my painting skills need work.
Now are you using enamel paint, or acrylic?
After you put on your weathering dust, what are you using to keep it on?
Now are you using enamel paint, or acrylic?
After you put on your weathering dust, what are you using to keep it on?
Wir ritten unsere Panzer zum Ruhm, es war der Todesschwan oder die Panzer. Schlacht von Kursk.
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Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project (Finish
Turned out awesome. Great Job
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Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project (Finish
I use acrylic most of the time now, I should mention that if you use an acrylic filter like I did and you use acrylic paint you need to spray the model with an enamel flat first before the filter and visa versa, if you use a enamel filter you should use acrylic paint or spray an acrylic flat varnish first.Aracula wrote:Very, very nice, I can build pretty good but my painting skills need work.
Now are you using enamel paint, or acrylic?
After you put on your weathering dust, what are you using to keep it on?
The dust is layered, a good dusting, then clean out excess between plates or where ever it is to heavy then spay flat enamel, I use model master but Tamiya is better. Then once dry repeat over and over till you have the desired look. It is easy to mess up, if you are to close the spray will totally blast away the dust. Practice makes perfect.
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Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project (Finish
Wow That Stug is just Great!!!!!! Between the paint and added details thats a piece
you could spend plenty of time looking at; beautiful job Jon.
you could spend plenty of time looking at; beautiful job Jon.
Re: Aracula's 1/18 Stug IV Review and Finish Project (Finish
Great work! Very nice